All things at once; neatly pissy; west/east hybrid, clever melding of cypriol with civet and castoreum to recreate a South East Asian oud without being too obnoxiously oudish : a thick down (no one does contemporary, thick, poreless downs like Francesca Bianchi and I mean that as a compliment: this lasts well into the next day – her Sticky Fingers basically the perfect patchouli vanilla; dense as; Calme Volupte an almost shockingly visceral spiked sandalwood – alarmingly sexual


on top, powdered white muskness – those who appreciate the negligence of Tom Ford Urban Musk and Jasmine Musk will like this – with a fondant balsam centre, like an oud chocolate with a liquid floral puree………… ; though White Musk, the original, is still the benchmark of this genre for me (and always has been), other comparable crystallines like Lutens Clair De Musc really just redefinitions; the classic Kiehls and Alyssas just less cleanly versions of the same (I don’t mind a touch of slovenliness in a scent sometimes – it is not usually my go to vibe even if I can’t resist gorging myself sometimes on Bal A Versailles, the musc of all time – but there is definitely a curl up comfort about a blanket of clean/unclean musk even if when worn outside, the riskier risque associations immediately clear )

Unspoken Musk piles on all this musk history, but tells its own stories – full, emotional, as the perfumer herself says, revealing the vice/virtue contradictions inherent in the human; my impression being that it smells quite different depending on the person – on D it was much more feathery and flamboyant while simultaneously too domestic – I smelled woodier, darker, and a tad simplistic, the state of initial cleanliness involved probably also crucial here: I would need to have squeaky clean after-bath epidermis to pull this one off for coziness; unwashed would be too feral – the filthometer teetering too precariously towards Total Skank – with a capital S


Filed under Flowers

9 responses to “UNSPOKEN MUSK by FRANCESCA BIANCHI (2022)

  1. OnWingsofSaffron

    Sounds like a must have.
    And yet: The “problem” with Francesca Bianchi is the capital S!! I wore her Angel’s Dust layered with Penhaligon’s Violetta (vintage) and, the next day, my wool shirt was positively reeking of unbridled, unspeakable wild abandon in some shady, insalubrious dark room.
    And her Under My Skin is even more extreme…!
    Therefore, alas, no more Bianchi perfumes for me.

  2. “the filthometer teetering too precariously towards Total Skank – with a capital S”
    Depending on who you ask, this could be a good thing.

  3. I am enjoying my bottle of Unspoken Musk!

    Sent from my iPhone


  4. It sounds divine. I have never smelled a single one of her creations. I shall have to order samples.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s