

Parfum Satori is unique in its quiet tucked-awayness; elegantly concealed inside a non-descript Tokyo apartment. If you didn’t know already what you were looking for you would never find it; a simple, small metal sign on a wall outside discreetly announcing its presence.

It feels more like a private residence than a standard perfumery. You ring the doorbell and are led up the staircase by one of the gracious assistants: asked to remove your shoes as you would do in any Japanese household, and are welcomed from the standard genkan domicile entrance into what would usually be a living room / kitchen but which here is the heart of Satori, complete with a perfume organ comprising hundreds of ingredients, the full range of fragrances on offer, as well as gulp-inducing glass/wooden cabinets that include ancient Carons, Diors – and an unopened, scarab beetle-esque extrait of Guerlain Djedi.
As a Personal Shopper curating a One Off Exclusive Experience for The Client, undoubtedly it would have been better to contact perfumer Satori Osawa in advance to request a one to one consultation – they are her creations after all, and she is as enigmatic as a sphinx. We have met a few times, and I am sure she would have obliged (I really should have; a nice touch, it would have been more on point for the kind of ultra-Japanese experience Monsieur was hoping for but I had no time to think the day before let alone make my way to the off the beaten track atelier; instead, having eaten virtually nothing all day and light headed from the exertion. we ended up slumping down in a delicious Turkish restaurant off a side street in Ginza I remembered from many moons ago and got drunk.

Still, although it would have been nice to refamiliarize myself with the entire collection in advance – I am actually quite conscientious in my own way – I was familiar with enough of the Satori collection to already have some ideas, my mind racing in the taxi as I took in his atmosphere, skin type, and we discussed his olfactory profile further ( it was immediately obvious that we definitely had one thing in common : uninterested in smelling weird or edgy for the sake of coming across as a cut above or beyond the rest — this had been my ultimate nightmare before the meetup- some Furious Fashion Bitch after a (passive) aggressive Ho-Horror Woody with burnt hojicha tea leaves and macerated crow in which he would wow the crowds at Martin Margiela or CdG while dousing his hair in pure gasoline — but no, our laid back, affable Gentleman just wanted to smell NICE.

That is pretty much my smell agenda also : I like unusual facets: a dash of mystery, elevation suavity; but harmony is key : a touch of discordance sometimes fascinating, but not something that makes my spleen wince.
This gentleman winces quite easily; like me, he knows in an instant ( I have never understood perfume lovers who need days and days to decide what they think about a particular scent : yes, occasionally unforeseen facets do surprise you and cannot be fully discovered at first huff but usually I can tell straight away – within a split second – I see the whole thing top to bottom like an x-ray scan; this dude would shake his head or nod unselfconsciously – here you saw The Power at work, a certain unshakeability of self-confidence -.as d and I presented him with scent strips hoping he would take a liking to at least one of them.

My first profferance was Iris Homme, smelling which Our Client’s eyes did light up. ‘Perfect post shower when The Gentleman is ready to put on a clean white shirt and chair a meeting: very refined’ I heard myself say with a certain oiled obsequiousness as though I had been doing this for years, finally finding my rightful place in this world – and he said yes, I really like it – but isn’t it a little too fleeting ?
I had to agree he had a point.
Lovely though they generally are, I have sometimes wondered if the Satori perfumes are almost too delicate; aqueous: deft watercolours rarely gouache; and certainly never oil paintings.

But this is also their strength.
The man comes from a country of Strong Perfume; those roiling stomach churners that have become the norm worldwide – and he wanted something separate from that; distinct (of course, he is part of The Elite); I told him that the powdery, nioi ayame iris and jasmine of the heart were buffered by sandalwood and a light musk/amber that could never come across as overtly floral; the flowers were hidden in the heart, the overall impression a silken comfort of cardamom, lemon and orange blossom in the top notes that is soap-clean, dreamy, but also curiously sensuous; he looked at me and said, ok, I will take this one.

Next up:
I was pretty sure he would like Satori, the founder’s signature perfume. I really like this one myself: almost a riff on Shiseido / Lutens Feminite Du Bois, this is a spiced (clove, cinnamon, vanilla) sandalwood/agar – but only a little ! I heeded his warning !) scrumptiousness that is distinctly wearable with an almost tactile Japoniserie I felt he would enjoy (he did; he also snapped up this one without a second thought)

Would we be able to make it three or more lucky strikes ?
We hovered over Hyouge, a very original -,if coolly offputting- I understood his reservations – patchouli, fresh mown grass matcha
— but more anon






























