Category Archives: Ozone





















When you live in the perfumed world I do, it can come as a sudden jolt to the senses to smell something so patently synthesized to smell ozonic, oceanic: searingly ultra-modern and fresh.


Rose Atlantic, a name that piques my aesthetics, is just that: roses awash in sea spray and sunlight. Lunging, zesting rose notes, doused in citrus provide an enlivening beginning, while underneath, a perturbing array of notes ( ‘salt spray rose accord’, ‘dune grass’, muscone and ‘salt grass’) provide the plausibly oceanographic backdrop.


Clean, oblivious  (an obvious paen to the Great Outdoors and the yachting life), this brisk, well-made perfume is not something I could ever wear myself – it made me feel like an alien when I had it on my skin, reptilian, cold, moist – but I can definitely imagine quite pleasurably encountering it on some hale, North American optimist – all perfect white teeth and smiling clean new sports clothes – as he or she hits the water.





































Filed under Flowers, Oceanic, Ozone

Waking in winter: EAU D’HIVER by EDITIONS DE PARFUMS (2003)








If you like your perfume to be subtle; preferably cold, and wistful – but not old-fashioned – then you might want to try L’Eau d’Hiver, a gentle and melancholy scent authored by that most minimalist of perfumers, Jean Claude Ellena.  A chill of winter:  bergamot, angelica, and a delicately ozonic note of ice-blanketed fields, as you gaze, incuriously, from the upstairs window, cradling tea.


The watery, woodish heart of the perfume – floral touches of iris, hawthorn, carnation and white heliotrope – lend touches of reassuringly honeyed reminiscence with their soothing notes of vanillic caramel.   They are notes, however, that are attenuated: sad, muted watercolours, as if seen from memory or frosted glass.


The delicate, soft transparency to L’Eau D’Hiver, this beautiful, wan smile of  pale, sugar-dusted almonds, is appealing initially as a comforting touchstone.   Eventually, all this fades, however, to nothing more than a sweet, featureless note of self-effacing colourlessness.


For the timid, and those who steadfastly plough their quiet and steely self assurance yet want a marker,  this scent has a place, though.  For the poetic. Shy, bookish girls in love with Sylvia Plath.


Filed under Almond, Ozone, Perfume Reviews

Teardrops, raindrops: EN PASSANT by EDITIONS DE PARFUMS (2000)

It is pouring outside today, in that melancholic, chilling winter way; the rain coming down in sheets.


The cat is in the futon cupboard, curled up into a ball; it is cosy in here and I am steeling myself to go out…..



I wondered. What perfume best captures rain?

Perhaps Olivia Giacobetti’s fleeting encapsulation of a lilac bush laden with rain drops in the city park, as you pass by on your way to your destination; that momentary soar in the heart as your brain picks up the flowers’ heartrending, overripe perfume before you even know the source…that sudden mad rush of possibility amid cold emptiness.



Winter is here. Spring is still far off.


Which makes these flowers seem even colder, even icier on the skin in this rain now –  more cruel.



















Sad lilacs.


Cold, ozonic umbrellas reflected in black pools of rain.


Ozone, lilac flowers, cucumber, and wheat absolute comprise the watery essence En Passant (‘In Passing’),  a jolt to the senses after the dead of winter.  An impressionistic, leaf-fresh rendering of what is to come.


An inspired synthesis of the chemical and the natural, this is possibly the wettest, coldest perfume I know.







Filed under Flowers, Lilac, Ozone, Perfume Reviews