Currently writing about spice perfumes for the book.
Currently writing about spice perfumes for the book.
Completely relevant : nothing has changed
I must admit that despite all the suave aromatics – the Hermès Poivre Samarcande, the Quince, Mint and Moss, by Union; Eau du Gloire by Parfum D’Empire, the sensual, elegant, gentlemanly lavenders – Sartorial, Jicky, Ungaro, Lavande Velours de Guerlain; the occasional spicier, and dirtier scent such as Czech & Speake Cuba or 4160 Tuesday’s spicebomb Shazam, among others, that, despite the olfactive prowess and style these scents show, and the trails of intrigue that they leave in his presence, I would trade them all in, in an instant, for the scent, on Duncan’s skin, of Coppertone SPF 30 UV Protect.
The boy will steadfastly not consent to a floral, and yet here he is, inadvertently wearing one; all fresh air, frangipani leis, salt-kissed skin, and manly, oceanic florality doused in sweet, delicate memories of waves, of the beach, of the sky, and freedom; a delicately arousing sillage, sun-fused with…
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Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, one of the pre-eminent independent perfumers, but one whose work I have had little access to, has just sent me about a million samples of her perfumes in the post from her studio in Colorado (more literally, probably, in the range of about one hundred and twenty, or two hundred – but who the hell is counting?)
I am mesmerized.
The prolific rangeness.
The covering of virtually every hue in the olfactory spectrum.
I have them all in a box, in the kitchen, and me and D will keep on trying them, like little advent calendar windows to open each night. . Albino. The Voices Of Trees ( D smells foxy as hell in Seve de Pin). The horror of Rendezvous- so scandalously animalic I could hardly believe it. Pretty And Pink. Fumee D’Or. A WHOLE CARNATION SERIES
(WHO makes five carnations??! (One of my obsessions, as a clove maniac.) Even one is a rarity. I LOVE this approach!)
The convincingly emotive Japanese Collection.
Kyphi, with its cardamom top note and intimations of embalming ambers…..
An entire world of intriguing perfumed vials to wade through……
But which ones to include in the book?
I hardly know where to start.
Please feel free to tell me your favourites, so I can rootle them out.
(I LOVE people with passion, creativity and generosity, though…………………………there are so many stingy, shallow mingers around in this world right now if you ask me: so much tedious, afraid-to-be-real bullshit, such….I don’t know……..BANALITY and ugliness and STUPIDITY that all,: : in essence,: : I can say for the time being is….)
HURRAH FOR DAWN SPENCER HURWITZ.
Blue can be cold and detached – the retraction of the self into remorseful reflection. The colour of melancholy: formal, austere, even chilling, and the doleful and anguished depression of Picasso’s Blue Period, where he retreated from society following the suicide of his friend, only ever finding solace in painting almost exclusively in blue.
But blue is also the most tranquil of colours – calming and rehabilitating to the human spirit – the blue of lakes, of rain and the sea, unburdening and psychially liberating. A colour in which to plunge.
In perfume, while in traditional masculines, blue usually signifies mainly marine-centred, preconceived ideas about conservatism, money and the outdoors, it also, in more thoughtful perfumed creations, can signify a real sense of interiority and mystery.
As a person far more drawn to reds and pinks, corals and crimson ( I am a fire sign after all), I am ambivalent…
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Imitation Woman smells like a person choking on passion fruit (actually ylang ylang, cassis, and licorice), passing out, and micturating in the process. Blasted out with an aldehydey rush that has you involuntarily raising your eyebrows and jerking your head back in surprise (Duncan’s eyes practically popped out when he smelled it), this is one of 2018’s most uncompromising releases.
The name, too. Obviously, it goes without saying that in fact, as is always the case with Amouage, there is simply an Amouage for women and one for men (the latter just smelled like a passable woody iris to me), but as you find yourself chuckling at the name you just know that the creative director, Christopher Chong is doing it deliberately, provocatively, just because he loves the ring of the words.
An ‘imitation woman’?
What IS that exactly ?
See, I knew in advance he was going to become ‘president’.
And he has practically sucked The Black Narcissus away, as well.
Quite simply, I have been utterly transfixed by the horror. I have never been so negatively fascinated by a human being, as he purposefully tries to smash the world apart, one institution at a time.
( Plus, in terms of my absence, in case you were wondering, I have a book to write, by the end of August, and still haven’t finished the school term, in the biggest heat wave in Japanese history!)
Is it not a BIZARRE year?
I hope you are well though
Donald Trump is interesting in that he provokes two extreme reactions in me. On the one hand, I could write reams and reams and reams about what he represents, on analysing his self-centred, bigoted, and very dangerous impact on the world. Simultaneously, at times, he quite simply renders me speechless.
Today, tired from work and from reading about him all morning in the weekend newspapers, I am veering more towards the latter.
I have never smelled any of the fragrances released by the house of Donald Trump, nor do I intend to, so I will let other people talk about them instead. “Success” is one of his other more recent releases, ” Trump “his eponymous and original signature perfume, though that last word, perfume, is not one that the misogynist and homophobic, illiterate fools that support him would be very likely to use themselves.
No, there are no Donald…
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Just watched Darren Aronofsky’s ‘Mother!’ again
(which my own mother HATED, possibly with good reason, though I think I kind of like it, as did Duncan and my sister)