Monthly Archives: April 2023

Scents I wore in Honolulu: Pu’er Tea by One Day, Spirito by Meo Fusciuni, Patchouli of the Underworld by Electimuss and Bon Monsieur by Rogue

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Our arrival in Honolulu had actually been delayed by a day (as we had fallen foul of an ESTA entry visa scam) and so the airport protocols had been a tad stressier than desired (= understatement). However, we sorted it out and the first day at the museum was a breeze with all the staff supportive and encouraging and the building itself attractive and relaxing with its courtyards and cloisters seen to fine effect in the blistering sun.

They certainly knew how to build attractive and sturdy structures back in the nineteen twenties. The Museum of Honolulu opened in 1927 and was designed to be a modern interpretation of a traditional Hawaiian building. It houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian and Pan-Pacific art and objects in America.

The perfumes sent through by niche perfumers had caused quite a stir among the museum staff, although Christine, the very person who instigated Neil’s participation in the Cross Pollination show, and head of Education and Engagement, is allergic to scented products and had been suffering the olfactory onslaught for over a month.

Aforementioned scents were stacked on a couple of trollies and my eyes immediately alighted upon the white boxes of One Day, Hong Kong-based perfume company, who had kindly contributed their tea range to the perfume workshop event, as I already know and use their Pu’er Tea fragrance. We settled on this as the perfume for me to wear (only very lightly out of deference to Christine) during the talk, as it is one of the most gentle and serene accords, soothing to myself and calming to Neil, who was nervous about talking in front of over 160 people. The top note of pu’erh tea is just a touch sweet, adding moisture and some enigmatic grace to a woody earthy middle and base of cedar, cypress, patchouli, frankincense and vetiver. It’s mellow and modern, yet also intriguing, and I love the way it develops on my skin.

Maybe the calm spell worked, as Neil pulled off his talk with aplomb…

For the workshop, we decided to come sans scents but after the events were done, I settled on Spirito, by Meo Fusciuni, a modern aromatic with a pleasingly harmonious aura of forest green – perhaps because my skin foregrounds the cedar and vetiver. Also, I love the way musk blends accords with a velvet touch and I am often drawn to scents incorporating musk. This was designed to be an evocation of Emily Dickinson’s meadow walks, though for me it is more sylvan and sensual than that might suggest.

An interesting thing happened as we waited for a bus to take us to the University of Honolulu campus to meet our friend Skyler. The bus was delayed by twenty minutes, so one of the people in the bus queue, a gent from El Salvador, struck up a conversation, immediately noting that we smelled great and pulling out a bottle of Tom Ford’s Leather from his rucksack, which he brandished with pride – and this without knowing anything about our reason for being there.

Though in rather different ways, I found both Pu’er Tea and Spirito to be refreshing scents for the Hawaiian heat.

With Christine now at a safe distance in mainland America on a business trip, I continued my scent journey by delving into richer, warmer territory, and intrigued by the name, I took up Patchouli of the Underworld by Electimuss, a very ambery, woody, leathery patchouli, with a sweet metallic opulence to it.

Neil said it was like a modern Shalimar and although not the kind of scent I would usually wear, I really enjoyed the middle stages where a certain spiced greenness emerges which was counterintuitively cooling. Is this the chill of the underworld asserting itself through the dense toffee opening?

This scent certainly has a charming sillage and though sweeter than I am used to, is definitely one I will be coming back to – perhaps in winter when Neil wears Shalimar – or Bal A Versailles.

We planned one final blast for the last evening as Skyler was taking us to a drag cabaret hotspot called Kat’s Closet in China Town. For this, we had prepared outfits purchased from Bailey’s Antiques, which specializes in aloha shirts that range in price from 20 dollars to 600 or 700 for the real vintage ones that hang from the ceiling, out of reach of most hands and budgets. The emporium has been frequented by many famous people, including Nicholas Cage (our vacations often follow in his footsteps it seems – Honolulu, New Orleans…) and had been recommended to us by our friend Christopher.

I managed to score an excellent $20 polyester chrysanthemum short-sleeved shirt – wholly 70s – which would go perfectly with the flairs and Cuban heels I’d brought. Neil picked up a rather more costly – but not extortionate given its splendiferousness – red sequined jacket for Burning Bush.

My all-synthetic, predominantly beige outfit demanded a manly 70s-esque number – Bon Monsieur by Rogue, purveyor of devilishly fine and dandyish confections (like Hove perfumes but with added twist and natty packaging), completely measured up. The citrusy, lavender facets of this soapy masculine scent helped to deodorize me with a gentlemanly clean but hopefully mischievously rakish olfactory vibe. (You’ll have to take my word for it.) A sartorial/olfactory combo I shall be revisiting with some relish.

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STOLEN TIME ….. TEMPO RUBATO + SAGAN DALYA by MAHER OLFACTIVE

After feeling (rather exhilaratedly) on the spot during the days at the museum I strongly felt the need to let LOOSE.

And so rather than throw away the flower arrangement displayed at the talk and the workshop, Burning Bush decided to go out for the night in the wonderful Chinatown area of Honolulu and wear it instead.

(jacket bought at Bailey’s vintage near Diamond Head, where Nicolas Cage buys all his Aloha shirts)

Our old friend Christopher – who we hadn’t seen for twenty years – picked us up for the evening : a gorgeously hot humid night ( had it not been for my get up – for once I was glad of the air conditioning ), on the road outside the second place we were staying at – the Holiday Surf Hotel, and drove us through the brutalist Honolulu architecture of downtown with all its lush tropical vegetation : an aesthetic I adore and became one with.

Duncan and Christopher outside of the Hawaii theater

He couldn’t stay long, but delivered us to the evening’s rendezvous secret location – a tiny club in the Old Blaisdell hotel called Katt’s Closet where we were to attend a screening of The Rocky Horror Picture Show.

Our host for the evening was another friend now living in Hawaii- Skyler, from our Tokyo cabaret network; frazzled in the big city before, now blissfully happy in Honolulu : we met in the secret location – invitation only – and proceeded through the beautiful old building to the venue.

Skyler was wearing Maher Olfactive’s Tempo Rubato ( literally ‘robbed time’) – a jazz term for improv – and on me, the what could be seen as overly ‘experimental’ overlays of stewed apricots, narcissus, leather, and a whole bunch of other ingredients was just not right. On S, though there was just the most perfectly controlled, delicately fruity sandalwood sillage that hovered exquisitely about their person for the entire, rather electrifying evening

letting off steam,to rage against the machine

As a great lover of red, I was more drawn to the more ‘difficult’, but for me more compelling, Sagan Dalya, based on perfumer Shawn Maher’s discovery of an unusual ingredient – the Siberian rhododendron. Floral, balsamic, coniferous., he combines this new essence with immortelle, honey and tobacco for a strangely addictive sweet deep medicinal blend that theoretically I should run a mile from, but that somehow ( perhaps because I came to really love the maple syrup licorice of Serge Lutens’ immortelle drenched Une Proie Pour L’Ombre and have become more accustomed to that nasal timbre) I am now very glad to possess. There is a depth. Heavy and rich – you feel yourself being pulled down inside this perfume. Also, I had spilled some costus absolute on myself a few days before, an essential oil I was smelling for the first time – an alarmingly dense, sweet essence similar to the feeling of Sagan Dalya, that I couldn’t get away from because it was all over me, getting stronger with the hours, as we walked in the city, along with oil of tuberose absolute that was intentional, sweating in my vest in the heavy air,……new smells all around us. unsure of some. but suffused with delicious saturation

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TUBEROSE + TUBEROSE+ TUBEROSE + TUBEROSE :::: TUBEREUSE TRIANON by LE JARDIN RETROUVE (1985)+FRENCH FLOWER by MATIERE PREMIERE (2022)+ TUBEREUSE by DSH PERFUMES (2013)

me at a lei stand in Honolulu China Town

The strongest flower scent was the fake plumeria piped into our hotel in Waikiki.

But there are flowers everywhere.

Plumeria flowers – real ones – drop slowly onto dense, spongey grass underfoot: big, silent pikake jasmine flowers – exquisitely fresh and coldly hypnotic -lurk in bushes. Inquisitive hibiscus, great banks of birds of paradise ; flowers I no idea of the name.

Tuberoses I haven’t seen in the wild, but they formed part of the lei I was given to wear at my talk at the Honolulu Museum Of Art- as well as puakenikeni and the most intense jasmine I have ever smelled; all placed around my neck in sheer sense derangement.

It was a very daunting, but also very exhilarating experience, that fortunately went well (I will write more extensively when we are back in Japan and I can describe it all more fluidly on my computer). I am way too self conscious to watch this myself, but here is the official link if you are interested :

https://youtu.be/5KGi6X-v9BQ

I met so many great people – also the next day at the workshop in the museum courtyard

all this niche perfume was part of the scent bar during the latter stage of the event and available to be siphoned off in samples as participants desired

The rest was mine : MINE ! to take home with me but logistics make that impossible. We are currently packing and taking back my personal selections : other bottles have been gifted to museum staff (who really couldn’t have been lovelier) and some friends we have here. Thanks so much to the brands for sending the perfumes – I will do more detailed features on the scents that were there later.

This exhibition was all about the flowers though, and it is flowers that I love, so quite obvious that the white florals that were there are coming home with me.

Tubereuse Trianon is a scent I once found at the flea market – a vintage original. This new edition is basically the same with a fresher coriander and rhubarb entree that is bright and head clearing – a good one for spring days.

Matiere Premiere’s Aurelian Guichard has a great predilection for Ambroxan (a characteristic I don’t share), but in French Flower, a buttery tuberose with the texture of Montale’s Intense Tiare, it kind of works. This is sexy and direct, and I might wear it for our last night on the town this evening.

The perfume that has really captured my heart on this trip though is DSH Tubereuse. Unassuming at first, compared to its brasher counterparts, this rich but subtly subdued tuberose accompanied my wrists out on a morning trip to get groceries at the corner store. I couldn’t tell if the flower smell was coming from the trees and hidden flora or my skin; combined with a pure tuberose extract I have been wearing in tandem, this lovely perfume has really got to the heart of it all.

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