I don’t usually go for leather. But the other day I found a bottle of vintage Etro Gomma in a perfume bargain bin and couldn’t quite resist.
I am going to wear it tonight, in Tokyo. D is doing a hilarious-sounding piece of performance art, at a revue in Roppongi, based on Suzi Quatro’s Can the can
and it just seems very fitting.
Beginning with a classic, dry, tangy opening (vaguely reminiscent of Antaeus and Fendi Uomo, with a momentary nod to Bandit) this aromatic leather soon changes tack, softens, and goes all sweet, sweaty and Kouros-like (that interesting addition of feral jasmine): balsamic, unapologetic, apropos.
Quite sexy, actually.
I am going to carry it off.
A perfume from another world and time, En Avion was created in 1929 by Caron to celebrate the birth of flight.
This spiced, solitary cuir is an extremely interesting and unique perfume that doesn’t resort to cliché, a subtle evocation of an independent lady from that era, a flapper who has taken flying lessons, and goggles and hat firmly on, is ready to take to the skies.
You can almost smell the cool leather of the pilot seat as she climbs aboard, breath visible on this cold winter afternoon; the clocks and dials of the wooden lacquered dashboard.
A smooth, rich, light grey scent, dry and cool; the principle notes of leather and violet, carnation and a dark orange blossom combined irreverently with spices and old-fashioned oakmoss: perhaps a difficult scent to wear today – especially in vintage – unless you are blessed with the right be-damned-with-it panache.
If you can find a good batch of En Avion, though, with its elegant, piquant aridity, you will have the enticing possibility of wearing a scent that is taut, melancholic and beautifully strange.