I am sick of sampling disgracefully overpriced and overblown niche perfumes that smell like shit. Sometimes I simply want something that just feels good and easy; is well made, hopefully with a wisp of the poetic (‘functionality’ doesn’t interest me), and if possible, a little intrigue and depth – a scent that you can spray on and feel happy in as you make your way through the day.
A couple of weekends ago a friend of mine presented me with this very pleasing and affordable edt, which she had picked up while back in Liverpool over the summer at Marks & Spencer : that beloved British institution, frequented by so many Brits- my sister lives in there for food shopping – if with a reputation for a certain dowdiness of stiff knickers and talc for peach granny’s birthday (it would always be extremely difficult for M & S for ever to be considered cool). Still, I was somehow quite shocked to discover that we no longer have one back in my hometown – the overly-venerated towering John Lewis department store having rendered it redundant and financially unviable during the pandemic. It felt strangely scandalous to me that it had closed down: I think that I might miss it.
At £34.00 for 100ml, Patchouli by Fragonard, available in the fragrance section at M & S, is, in my view, a really excellent bargain. It soothes and appeals, with an undertone of elegantly presented eroticism. It feels neat. Held together. I even rather like the watercolour design on the box – obviously, cheapness usually does dilute aesthetics- and aesthetics do mean a lot to me in terms of perfume collecting -but the design here is quite good. I can live with this.
Interestingly, Sarah’s Japanese husband Keisuke – who I have given woody perfumes to in the past- had detested this fresh and soft, biscuity dark tonka-bean patchouli so thoroughly on her that he refused to be in the same house: to him, it just smelled musty and old in all the wrong ways, reminding him too much of earlier eras in Japanese history and depressing grandchild smells. Repulsed. A no go. Quite dismaying. She therefore kindly decided to give the perfume to me, though she still liked it – and so did I — the very second I sniffed it from the bottle.
I often tend to be drawn to these more ‘artisanal’ French and Italian brands : the kind of boutiques you find dotted in little towns in the hills of Tuscany or Provence. You wouldn’t call them mainstream, niche, vintage, or natural/botanical – they occupy their own terroir: not quite as traditional as the old style colognes, not as edgy as indie, whose for the-sake-of-experimentation chemical weirdness often leaves an acrid pit in my belly, yet they are also usually more refined and pared down than the WAG-curdled boobliciousness of low level airport, which from me just usually inciter a couple of grossed-out heaves and a sneer. The far less sex-obsessed, celebrity-less, more in-the-family parfumeurs such as Fragonard, Molinard and the like, with their Grasse-rooted historical traditions of distilling local essences and then blending them, just get on quietly on a daily basis with the less conceptually-mired business of creating nice and wearable perfume.
D liked this one the second he smelled it on me. I felt great it in as well. With vestiges of 19 parfum and Givenchy Gentleman from the day before still lingering on my coat – I like both of those perfumes far better in their later stages, particularly when loitering on clothes, I instinctively knew that this generous-hearted patchouli would work in tandem. While the base accord is quite earthy, chocolatey, vetivery (not listed) and musky – it reminds me of a couple of old L’Occitanes I used to like, with a similar feel – the top notes of bitter orange, caraway and petitgrain Paraguay create a suavely delicious patchouli perfume with a hint of cedarwood and rose that gently opens up the senses. To me, the perfume feels contemporary and classical at the same time – not that I especially care about those distinctions – but I do like an aspect of ‘timelessness’ sometimes, when a scent is not quagmired in the steaming stench of PR horsedung and tired olfactory clichés, but can just play out and evaporate happily on its own natural terms. If you are like K, and cannot bear the smell of natural patchouli, then obviously stay clear of this one. If you are more like D and I, and, on occasion want an earthier number perfect for a comforting winter nuzzle; you have an M & S in your vicinity, or just feel like very lightly flexing your credit card, I do highly recommend trying this value-for-money patchouli scent – particularly at this time of the year. It is great. Thanks, Sarah. x
Thoroughly well said. There is a quiet and persistent underground that appreciates the depth of patch, and also a knee jerk hostility faction, that decisively equates it with the unclean forces of the universe. Possibly the most divisive note in perfume? That the smaller traditional fine perfume makers are carrying on, successfully maintaining a wholesome relationship to fragrance materials and themes beside/outside the trend machine is reassuring. How great to get such a gift that hits the right spot at the right time.
How brilliantly described everything you say is ;
YES
I’m always pleased when I wander into M&as to find the still stock Fragonard. Long may they continue to do so. There are a few Fragonard frags that are worth five times their price. M&S stock L’Occitane too.
wow now I need to go even more
what Fragonardini do you recommend ?
Grain de Soleil, Cardamom Santal & Gingembre Heliotrope are all solid
want !
‘Solid’ is such a good word for this kind of scent
Thank you for your recommendation! I love M&S and patchouli perfume. I recognized a M&S coat worn by a British visitor on a subway in New York when I talked to her. She was shocked to know there is M&S in the US. I said no, I purchased it online and had it shipped to me.
It does feel super British somehow and almost unimaginable in the US.
If you like patchoulis in general I am pretty sure this might be a good buy
Ooops, they don’t sell it online. I need to ask my friend in UK to get it for me.
I haven’t gotten around to accepting the musty character of patchouli so far, but do like the earthy, woody, and chocolatey facets (would like to explore more of the last one).
I actually don’t think this comes across as fustymusty – the tonka and citruses make it more chocolatey without being sweet ( there is a smooth bitterness )
I’m afraid patchouli has associations with cough and cold preparations and the elderly in Asia.
Always a treat to find Fragonard, Molinard, Roger&Galet, and the like. At least they make an attempt to be tasteful and true to the ingredients.
These overblown and overpriced niche scents don’t smell like shit to me – more like banal or bizarre.
that = horrible ! ( = shit )
I had forgotten the medical associations of P but you are right
Nice. M&S perfumery and beauty department is excellent, by the way. They stock interesting brands and make their own well-priced effective skin care range. A far cry from the peach and forest fern days of our youth. And although they will probably never capture the youth vote, even their clothing department has experienced a small renaissance recently. Either that or I’m getting old. (Actually, it’s probably the latter). X
Will definitely have to go into one then next time I am back. Do you think it’s weird that M&S in Solihull closed down ?
Just purchased Heliotrope Gingembre for my mum for Christmas. £32! It’s delightful. I think I need one for myself
Is this another Fragonard one? Need also to investigate!
Great post, Neil. As usual. Speaking of M&S, have you seen this? Getting a bit of a buzz about it.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=94GslcJcaWU
Niche perfumes! I was duped the other day:
Tauer perfumes launching an exclusive special to celebrate something. The blurb reads:
„The fragrance is classy, rich and blends fresh citrus notes with rose oil, lemon blossom, a dash of iris root, and warm woods, creating a captivating and grounding scent. The depth and richness of amber gris, tonka, vetiver, and oakmoss add to its sophistication and refinement.“
Yes I blind bought a bottle and oh, how I bitterly regret it. It is just awful! A chemical hiss far beyond class, not a natural reference in sight or smell. I nearly cried. What on earth are they selling, and why — the idiot that I am — did I walk into the trap?
My memory of it is so godawful that I will not revisit it ever. All I can do is wait and try and sell it.
So stupid of me!!!
Ah. I have had no luck with that house either. I bought Marocain and DETESTED it, deeply, but I gave it to my brother and he and people who smelled it on him went nuts over it. The chasm sometimes is genuinely baffling.
Hope you find a buyer !
Technically there is still an M&S in Solihull, on a retail park in Shirley just a short drive away. Not quite the romance of your sepia tinted version cira 1986 but still…better organised and VERY BIG. You can get the No. 6 there if you don’t have a car.
THAT place ?
My mum took me to that retail park once. Desolation !