I had a good lookaround in Tokyo yesterday.
One thing I (re) realized : much as I would love to meet up again with some of the lovely perfumisti and perfumiste I have got to know over the years and can imagine us communing post-armathon, back-of-handathon and wristathon and sample-sprayed cards bursting meaninglessly out of shoved in books over vino in some beautiful ancient charmery in Cannes, Milano or Firenze, the reality is that I am just too neurodivergente to possibly deal with all the chemical overwhelm.
I have become very olfactive-sensitive to pierce the-duodenum blood/metallic screech : I could have vomited smelling the Beaufort range of scents in Nose Shop Shinjuku, which to me make nails across the blackboard feel like a gentle manicure – these perfumes are my nemesis. There are plenty of that type around of course; people like them. Fair play if you do. For me personally, though, these EDs (endocrine disrupters – probably true for the majority of perfumes, let’s be honest), are nothing short of sprayable horror stories.
Thankfully, less desperate to be conceptual brands do still exist (in the old days the inspiration for the creation was usually just ‘let’s make an irresistible smelling perfume’) and I was pleased to realize how many longstanding ‘alternative’ brands still exist. I didn’t see any L’Artisan Parfumeur anywhere – are they ok ?- but all the usual suspects, from the Malles to The Different Company to Nicolai to Ella K – to Orchestre de Parfums to Unum to Bond No9, and many others were still going strong, some after decades; I found it gratifying that despite the constant tsunamis of new brands being birthed every day – often, in my view, just out of sheer greed and not real artistry (discuss): Giants like Le Labo, Diptyque, Creed, Byredo and Mariela Replca are all HUGE in Japan right now —-no, it was pleasing to me that even the less sledge-hammeresque niche houses are also now so entrenched in the public’s perfumed consciousness that they can continue not only to exist, but to also make good scent.
The fruity gourmand has obviously been done to death, but there is something about Dea Bendata – or Blessed Goddess – that speaks Seasonal Cheer. With all the spiced oranginess in the initial burst of Nepalese Timur pepper, pomegranate, green grape and Turkish rose; the warm balsams of the base ; the sense of fullness – not wretched spindles of corrosive irondust ladled callously over poisonous ozoned fake woods for the ponderous beard-clutching Hipster — make this perfume – like an Italian mulled wine and panettone, full of vivacity and good humour with a great deal of twinkle in its eye -rather appealing. In spiteful times, we sometimes need such generosity.
I much enjoyed this one. Miss you.
You too
Get your perfume hating ass over here !
So true, I share those feelings. This a lovely post and the photos are like jewels, glowing on my screen and bringing joy!
Oh glad you liked it
Despite my bitching, I wanted an ultimately cheerful post
Fun post – makes me want to try this one for the season… I recall liking this brand but annoyingly can’t remember which fragrance, and the bottles have changed. I’m wearing Puredistance Rubikona and Lutens’ La Myrrhe, on the red theme. I couldn’t agree more on the wretched spindles; this is a difficult season with people indoors and wearing things that make me recoil. There was no easy way to respond when my weekend guests excitedly asked if liked their perfume, which smelled like the air fresheners in the lifts in Kinokuniya in Tokyo. I’m no good at describing it beyond that but will pluck up the courage to say “interesting, what is it?” next time. Young adults’ cheap buys are challenging too; I’ve done my best in my household but they have their vanilla and fruit likes. And candles with caramel and hazelnut and pumpkin spice. Coconut shampoos. I’m assailed, but it’s hard to keep the house well ventilated when it’s cold outside. God knows how the dog can stand it. I try to remember they may feel the same about what I wear, though. I’ve dug my own grave; they actually like some of my favourites (various Puredistance, 24 Faubourg, Guerlains, Carons, Shiseidos) but of course won’t wear them because they don’t want to smell like mum. This applies whether it’s a new niche favourite or an old classic, and whether it’s a “male” or “female” perfume. So the challenge is finding something I like but don’t wear, and seeing if they like it. Happy season and may the new year bring lots of interesting finds.
THE MIASMA IS REAL
YOU HAVE BROUGHT HER TO LIFE
Heating on : brief flourishes of windows open for that vital fresh air
glad someone understands what I am saying about the foulness
Ps with what you describe above, don’t think you need any fruity Italian goddesses further flooding the scene – it could be Christmas Eve at the ICU
First: I have been reading you for years and you’re one of my favorite reviewers/bloggers. Happy New Year!
Second: please forgive me if I’m being overly-literal, but as you haven’t reviewed anything recent by L’Artisan (such that I’ve seen?), I wanted to comment on your side quip.
Context: I’ve been collecting L’Artisan since “back in the day” and have at least 10 full sized bottles (including D’Zing with the tiger, love so much).
While I have been a bit disappointed with their La Botanique collection, the Le Potager collection is fun, interesting, and wearable. I specifically love Musc Amarante and Cédrat Céruse — both from the ubiquitous Quentin Bisch. If you’re intrigued to try those, I’d love to see your take!
I haven’t come across any of these at all but my interest is piqued ! Thank you and a very happy new year to you