Citruses are usually destined for summer – for obvious reasons. But sometimes, an aromatic lemon scent with chypric undertones – think Annick Goutal Eau Du Sud, the original Eau De Rochas, can be bewitching in Autumn and Winter. They become not mere sweat reductors — but sing more silverily on the air; purer: a more wrenching suaveness of melancholy.
I was delighted the other day to get a message from my old friend Peter who has been sojourning in Rome for ten days, revisiting our old haunts and immersing himself in the art, churches, and magnanimous atmosfera.
At the Choistro Del Bramante exhibition bookshop, he came across some copies (with the original gold-leaved pages!) of the Italian, now out of print, version of my book Perfume — and has just very kindly sent me a copy.
The whole package was scented with Acqua Viva, which at first I confused with the similar Goutal (in fact I don’t think I have ever smelled this one before; I associate Profumum more with its thick, luxurious tooth melting confectioneries such as Battito D’Ali, Gioiosa, Confetto and the like; any other favourites from this velvety decadent profumeria?)
This citrus couldn’t be further from that style, though : Amalfi lemons form the main frame, but there is a mossier, darker element from the cedarwood and cypress undertones; a certain adult sternness. I can easily imagine Peter wandering around the ruins in this : he always wore the aromatics well at university : scents such as Aramis Devin that were quietly enigmatic.
Acqua Viva must have smelled beautiful in the yellowing, auburn and russet trees of Ancient Rome, the quiet somnolence of St Paul’s pyramid; the indolent, strolling cats at my favourite place in the city; John Keats’ grave at foreigners’ cemetery, Testaccio.
From the notes alone, I would have expected Acqua Viva to resemble Eau d’Hadrien more closely. I appreciate your pointing me toward a mossy citrus—now I’m intrigued to try it for myself.
What a lovely birthday gift!
Yes – and you are probably right about Hadrien in my fading befuddlement !
I have just bought four Amalfi lemons and am wondering what to do with them! Save one for our G&T …. perhaps a cake? Or Greek lemon potatoes? They are really big! Anyway, I think I would like the Acqua Viva, and am glad to see Eau de Rochas remembered – people always used to say how lovely I smelt when I wore it.
Your book is a work of art.
Thank you.
Love the idea of you in Eau De Rochas !
Fragrantica is full of people who hate the Lemon Pledge aspect of this : others seem to think it is the citrus holy grail.
I LOVE lemon cake !!! It is never lemony enough for me though
Please rectify this lemonic injustice !
Basically I love anything lemony, and like you, nothing is ever lemony enough! I cheat sometimes and add a few drops of Boyajian lemon oil which boosts the flavour of whatever I have cooked (cakes or savouries). Thoroughly recommend but it has to be used very sparingly.
I have a 30mL of Eccelso as a souvenir from my trip to Rome. Not super exciting but undeniably effective, all “adult sternness,” as you say. And I kinda go crazy for anything w a nutmeg.
Me too. Adore it. Sometimes ‘undeniably effective’ is quite a nice aura to project!