CHYPRE SIAM by ROGUE (2017)

Perfume-wise, right now I am taking stock. As I enter The Austerity, I am having a careful look at perfumes I bought or received in the past that I have too quickly disregarded or taken for granted.

With the way the world is going – so AWFULLY! A W F U L L Y !! – but I just can’t bear to go into all that right now: even glancing at the news has a stark impact on my blood pressure — perfume has the capacity to induce at the very least a modicum of calm; a protecting veil to assuage some of the inhumanity and cruelty — and retreat into a selfishly (?) withdrawing cocoon.

I have been finding Mitsouko the perfume of choice. It doesn’t make me swoon or feel excited, overheated or flamboyant ; it just takes things down a notch into a quiet, mossy grove of spiced elegance and grace, like a trail of autumnal sunlight filtering warmly but melancholically on to green velvet. To prolong its effect, I have been dousing my left sweater sleeves (it is cold; I am wearing two), with some vintage eaux de toilette; and enjoying its subdued, but still plush, emanations.

The right sleeves and wrists have been adorned with Rogue’s Chypre Siam, a modern homage to Mitsouko theoretically but in fact completely its own scent. Conceived as a ‘rainforest tropical chypre’, I don’t personally find it especially moist or equatorial : rather, the top accord of basil and Thai kaffir lime and other citruses form a ray-filled light Pantone leaf green of positivity that lasts for a very long time until gradually subsumed by the animalic – a touch of leather and civet – with the uplifting spiced floral musks providing heart. Despite its alleged animalism I find this sleek; unfussed- – neither feminine nor masculine – and paradoxically clean. Most importantly , though different, Siam is very complementary to Mitsouko : by wearing them both together I don’t become anosmic to either. They give life throughout the day and evening. They soothe. And unlike the rest of the world right now outside – there is some harmony.

18 Comments

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18 responses to “CHYPRE SIAM by ROGUE (2017)

  1. Filomena

    I have both of those perfumes and will have to try that combination. Thanks for the tip.

  2. Gregory Stanton

    It’s exquisite, as is Mousse Iluminee. Rouge’s best was Ishtar, but it was discontinued.

  3. Monika

    I lllllllove Mitsouko, but I love reading you even more.
    Will try to find Chypre Siam.

  4. I’ve only just discovered some Rogue scents are available in the UK. Including Chypre Siam. I’ve wanted it for so long & now I can get it I’m on an enforced no buy. My DH isn’t able to work whilst having this latest chemo so fripperies are off the table.

    • Blimey that sounds tough – but though I hate to say it this is not holy grail material for me -which is why I have ignored it for so long, and fripperies are also off my table – so you are not too missing in action

      truly hope the treatment works – how gruelling

  5. Hamamelis

    I missed why you have to enter The Austerity, I don’t need to fortunately, but I am sort of partaking in Poria’s challenge on Perfume Posse by wearing all the perfumes I own this year. So far so good, with happy surprises.
    I am on a ‘No News’ 3 months (at least) again, it is simply not good for me. My husband will let me know if there is really something I ought to know. I donate to causes that may help a little, and my aim is to do what I can do in my direct surroundings. To do that I need to be well.

    My brother (recently retired) and my sister in law and my niece travelled in Japan for a month, they just returned. We could follow them via Polarsteps and it was such a treat. They could stay in an appartment from a friend in Zushi. Ofcourse they also visited Kamakura, toured the city on bikes as true Dutch people would. Once we retire we will surely travel to Japan, for me looking at my brother’s pics of Fuji, the gardens and temples, Kamakura Buddha, the mountains of Kumano Hongu/Kodo and the ocean has an immediate calming effect. Now find a perfume that can evoke that feeling….Wishing you well!

  6. Kate Byrd

    I think we should rebrand this era as “The Great Austerity” as it sounds more dramatic and grand.
    I’m going through a bit of austerity myself. Thankfully the economic careen in tourism during Covid has ceased, (2024 brought more tourists to Nepal than any previous year.) I’ve decided to switch careers from gallery owner to medical/regulatory writer (the tourists now are mostly Indian and Chinese who don’t buy art, I suspect there will be less European and American tourists due to the current world situation.)
    And….. the perfume world has gotten so overpriced and over saturated, I just can’t anymore. Luxury in general has gone to crap – clothes, handbags, skin care makeup – outrageous price raises, diminishing quality, and zero originality.
    So… I’m going on a year of “no buy” and shopping my stash. I might splurge on a couple of discovery kits, but that’s about it. None of the new releases intrigue me anyway.
    I did sample Rogue’s Jasmine Antique and loved it!

    • Wow – really big changes for you this year – I admire your boldness and energy greatly (when I am personally rather going down the plughole); best of luck with the new career.

      Totally agree with what you say about ‘luxury’ as well. Shocking price increases wedded to crappier quality – once that lustre has gone it loses all appeal.

      Rogue is a perfect example of good quality and reasonable price – their florals are incredible, as you say.

      When you say shopping do you mean ebaying your collection?

      • Kate Byrd

        No, I have about 40 bottles of perfume and maybe 20 decants- I need to use them this year or toss, gift, or resell them. The scents are grouped according to season so I rotate them.
        I’m doing the same with my makeup collection, going to try to either pan or toss most of it. Nothing new in luxury cosmetics either except higher prices.

  7. I will try them together! Thanks for the great idea.

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