THE SMELL OF KABUKI

The Black Narcissus

 

 

 

 

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I went to Kabuki for the first time yesterday. The recently reopened Kabukiza theatre in Ginza, closed for many months of reconstruction, was thrumming with activity and anticipation Saturday morning as hawkers sold trinkets, souvenirs and all kind of kabuki-related goods in the exit of Higashi-Ginza subway station, where patrons lined up to buy specially made bento boxes to take into the theatre during the lunch break between performances. 

 

 

 

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Although I have been to see Noh theatre performances several times in Japan –  the ancient, classical form of musical theatre that moves at a glacial, austere and exquisite pace – deeply hypnotic and subcutaneously dreamlike…

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