Monthly Archives: August 2018

AS THE TYPHOON APPROACHES

As I head off to work in an approaching typhoon…..this is what a typhoon smells like

The Black Narcissus

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Last night, as the typhoon was still lashing Okinawa, when I got to the station at Ofuna and the train doors opened I just thought sea. The entire air had been convulsed and moiled, like a salty, kelp-loden interlude. I found it refreshing, inviting. A geographical shift; unexpected. As I walked up the hill to the house the air was mist-covered; shrouded, but clear. Touching, vaguely, on spooky, but more on the magical tip; with things and plants thrown into silhouetted, gloomy relief against the electric light of the moon, despite what a Japanese friend called, intriguingly, ‘this disquieting air’.

Today, as it rages across the country, offloading water by the godfull , causing all kinds of havoc in the southern prefecture of Kagoshima, Kyushu: where we are, near the capital, it was sunny this morning, only tinting into bruised and blowy by the afternoon, when the winds began to…

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ARABIE by SERGE LUTENS (2000)

 

 

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Currently writing about spice perfumes for the book.

 

Any favourites?

 

 

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ARABIE…..by SERGE LUTENS (2000)

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August 7, 2018 · 11:11 am

I MUST ADMIT

Completely relevant : nothing has changed

 

 

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The Black Narcissus

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Plumeria Frangipani Floating On Clear Blue Aqua Lagoon Water Sea Ocean Desktop Background

I must admit that despite all the suave aromatics – the Hermès Poivre Samarcande, the Quince, Mint and Moss, by Union; Eau du Gloire by Parfum D’Empire, the sensual, elegant, gentlemanly lavenders – Sartorial, Jicky, Ungaro, Lavande Velours de Guerlain; the occasional spicier, and dirtier scent such as Czech & Speake Cuba or 4160 Tuesday’s spicebomb Shazam, among others, that, despite the olfactive prowess and style these scents show, and the trails of intrigue that they leave in his presence, I would trade them all in, in an instant, for the scent, on Duncan’s skin, of Coppertone SPF 30 UV Protect.

The boy will steadfastly not consent to a floral, and yet here he is, inadvertently wearing one; all fresh air, frangipani leis, salt-kissed skin, and manly, oceanic florality doused in sweet, delicate memories of waves, of the beach, of the sky, and freedom; a delicately arousing sillage, sun-fused with…

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I THINK I LOVE THIS WOMAN

 

 

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Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, one of the pre-eminent  independent perfumers, but one whose work I have had little access to, has just sent me about a million samples of her perfumes in the post from her studio in Colorado (more literally, probably,  in the range of about one hundred and twenty, or two hundred –  but who the hell is counting?)

 

 

 

I am mesmerized.

 

 

The eclectica!

 

 

The prolific rangeness.

 

 

 

The covering of virtually every hue in the olfactory spectrum.

 

 

 

The PROFUSION.

 

 

 

 

 

I have them all in a box, in the kitchen, and me and D will keep on trying them, like little advent calendar windows to open each night. . Albino. The Voices Of Trees ( D smells foxy as hell in Seve de Pin). The horror of Rendezvous- so scandalously animalic I could hardly believe it.  Pretty And Pink. Fumee D’Or.  A WHOLE CARNATION SERIES

 

(WHO makes five carnations??!  (One of my obsessions, as a clove maniac.) Even one is a rarity. I LOVE this approach!)

 

 

 

The convincingly emotive Japanese Collection.

 

 

 

Kyphi, with its cardamom top note and intimations of embalming ambers…..

 

 

 

 

 

An entire world of intriguing perfumed vials to wade through……

 

 

 

 

 

 

But which ones to include in the book?

 

 

 

 

I hardly know where to start.

 

 

 

 

 

Please feel free to tell me your favourites, so I can rootle them out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(I LOVE people with passion, creativity and generosity, though…………………………there are so many stingy, shallow mingers around in this world right now if you ask me: so much tedious, afraid-to-be-real bullshit, such….I don’t know……..BANALITY and ugliness and STUPIDITY  that all,: : in essence,: :  I can say for the time being is….)

 

 

 

 

 

 

HURRAH FOR DAWN SPENCER HURWITZ.

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