Walking behind some Europeans in Kamakura yesterday I was dismayed by the brain-bashing stench of the perfume a young ish man strolling ahead of me had unleashed into our rarified midst. It was…. disgusting. ‘Beast Mode’. Nullifying. A vulgarian boulder blocking up the airwaves.
In Japan, a country that favours olfactory subtlety, such ‘perfumes’ – can we really call them this ? – only pollute the oxygen. Even from several paces away I felt assaulted, as though clubbed by an ox: how could anyone come into physical proximity with such a pollutant-contaminated skin interface?
The chemists that gave us Baccarat Rouge and its infinite variants that slough the breeze like brainless pink godzillas burning our cilia with singed saffron caramels, monsterized jasmins and synthetic oudhs – do they not eventually wish they could retract them from our collective consciousnesses and take us back to a purer air ? All the inescapable, evil ‘ambers’ that troll our minds like a brain bludgeoning life sentence?

The Kamakura perfume yesterday – vile though it was – was nothing in comparison to what I smelled in a Shinjuku hotel room a couple of weeks ago, however – wow ! It was the most shocking, indeed scandalous ! reaction I have ever had to a perfume.


Admittedly, we were overperfumed ourselves. Our friend from Shanghai had very generous it booked a luxury weekend at a Hyatt and we naughtily stayed over – crowding in to her room before hitting the nightlife afterwards (still only in semi recovered mode I couldn’t, alas, take part in the dancing but went out for the first chapter ): she doused in contemporary Fahrenheit; d in Electimuss Puritas – a pink pepper vanilla frankincense – Yukiro in Paloma Picasso, and me in my somewhat smothering ‘Guerlain Winter Special’ – vintage Shalimar, Vol De Nuit and Heritage applied liberally six hours in advance – so yes, it was already too much, and quite old school I suppose- omg, there may have been some naturally sourced aroma materials ! only making any twenty first century heightened aromachemicals all the more noxious in cruel juxtaposition,
but Jesus Christ, when Tony walked in from his suite upstairs and entered our own clouds of excessive perfumanity I had the intensest inner response to a ‘fragrance’ ever in my life.

Reader, I was paralyzed.

Paralyzed! I couldn’t move or speak. A sudden plunge into brief, disorientating insanity.
Thinking at first it was just my usual jolt of initial sociophobia when meeting new individuals, I tried to open my mouth, but the overwhelming flattening of my nervous system by whatever monstrosity he had just obviously sprayed on a few moments before entering our space left me awestruck : physically speechless.
Karen kept looking at me as if to say when are you going to start communicating, but the toxic miasma of searing petrochemicals he had ruined himself with was so severe it took me about ten minutes to gather myself. Is this what nerve gas feels like ? A biohazardous attack, inhuman and system shredding ?
Eventually, of course, I pulled myself together, still marvelling at the power of his pungency and the fact he was supposedly on the pull in the gay zone later that evening ( surely only the fully anosmic could approach another person, no matter how physically attractive, in these circumstances), and though it was hypocritical, for your sake, I had to eventually ask him, if he didn’t mind, what the ‘interesting’ perfume he was wearing was called.
‘It’s the new Scandal by Jean Paul Gaultier’.

‘Usually I wear Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille’ he told me – and oh god, I wish you had was my inner reply
..’ but I got a sample of this at Shanghai airport as I thought it was quite nice..’

!!!!
Admittedly, it did later tone down to just a regular, irritating banality rather than an attack by a bioweapon designed to induce crippling neuropathy – but man, this was a serious nadir in modern fragrance for me : damaging to the spirit and physically utterly intolerable. Obviously this post is hyperbolic beyond endurance – so do take it with your own personal grain of salt – but still, in all honesty, like the proliferation of nuclear missiles currently mushrooming globally – for the sake of humanity – can these ingredients honestly be safe for our bodies ? I really do wish I could rid the entire world of this poisonous shit.
All the Gaultier fragrances are a bit much, and yes, that might be the understatement of the decade. Nuclear doesn’t even begin to cover the sillage and sheer obnoxiousness.
It’s a shame, because I genuinely love the eccentricity and vintage sensibility in JPG’s clothing. The fragrances feel like someone threw every over-the-top 80s powerhouse into a blender with the most egregious gourmands of the 90s and called it a day.🤢
Yes but the first ones were quite nice !
This, honestly Ms Byrd, — I was IMMOBILIZED.
Horrific
I recently blind ordered and received some exfoliating toner pads from a brand that usually offers not overly strong perfumed or fragrance free products. For some reason, the decide to go full scale bath body works. It might even be one of the Mugler Angel flankers (that don’t smell like Angel) with the acid pads. I wrote a note to them begging to please don’t use strong perfumes especially with skin acids yikes! I ended up using it as treatment for my soles but even then it was very strong to my nose. The stuff really travels and penetrates everywhere.
I left my fragrances at home before traveling to Japan.
I had heard stories of “assaulting” others olfactory systems. (This isnt a thing here, considering how “the funk” comes from everywhere).
It was nice not being assaulted in Japan, but I do miss a certain Miss Dior ladened friend.
I mean yeah – when it works it works – I do love perfume after all
But this whole beast mode thing – I just don’t get it : what is your most beastly ?
I have tried to be more subtle, at least for an American, these days. Bentley Silverlake? I have one “oud adjacent” fragrance that I have to be careful with. I have a great excuse to steer away from beast mode; my sense of smell is “shot” from industrial chemicals, possible metal poisoning.
Yes I remember you saying – all the more reason to find something more natural smelling – gentler !
I think in the States there is just so much SPACE everywhere that reeka-deeking of one’s funky juice, laundromat detergents and then duty free nuclear is less problematic
You are correct. Detergent commentary especially.
I prefer a less ‘dunderhead’ aura – it is so easily done !
This Scandal Pour Homme was honestly sickening – not fit for humanity
I have just been thoroughly entertained.
Oh good
I had to cut the first bit because it went too far
I was paralyzed though – immobilized in mind and body – an extremely intense reaction