Monthly Archives: October 2026

SOME NEW PERFUMES I HAD A SNIFF OF TODAY : METAL LAVENDER by MATIERE PREMIERE; TOBACCO CHOCOLAT + FIGUE EROTIQUE by TOM FORD; and LA NUIT TOMBEE by SERGE LUTENS (2026)

VERY cursory reviews, be warned ;:

Metal Lavender : I don’t know; I love lavender but am incapable of accepting any synthetic notes that don’t suit my aggrieved, neurasthenic system in recent times and this perfumer – Aurelian Guichard – really plays to the market for brash chemicals. All I want to do is roll in the hay of a French lavender farm – I need no electrified undercurrent.

Figue Erotique : plugged up with coarse aureoles I don’t ever personally need : why must ‘figs’ be so damn pheromonal?

Tobacco Vanille is a Modern Monument that has sold by the truckload : one night this summer in Tokyo I spent most of the evening – a club event underground called Egomaniac – beauteously like living in a Soft Cell video – talking with a Russian girl – one of the most beautiful people I have ever seen – positively drenched in the now classic Tom Ford. Its proportions felt right : a potent chiascuro. Will this new cacao variant add to the hall of fame ? It might. The name will surely be enough in itself.

Nuit Tombee was the only one that had me actually feeling anything : and I need to feel some poetry, some semblance of emotion, to fall for any perfume.

I sensed a tumbling forward; down; urged by the name no doubt – a dark valley of something that beckoned. Cloves. Cloaks. Japanese incense. I will be going back to try this one again.

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