VERY cursory reviews, be warned ;:
Metal Lavender : I don’t know; I love lavender but am incapable of accepting any synthetic notes that don’t suit my aggrieved, neurasthenic system in recent times and this perfumer – Aurelian Guichard – really plays to the market for brash chemicals. All I want to do is roll in the hay of a French lavender farm – I need no electrified undercurrent.
Figue Erotique : plugged up with coarse aureoles I don’t ever personally need : why must ‘figs’ be so damn pheromonal?
Tobacco Vanille is a Modern Monument that has sold by the truckload : one night this summer in Tokyo I spent most of the evening – a club event underground called Egomaniac – beauteously like living in a Soft Cell video – talking with a Russian girl – one of the most beautiful people I have ever seen – positively drenched in the now classic Tom Ford. Its proportions felt right : a potent chiascuro. Will this new cacao variant add to the hall of fame ? It might. The name will surely be enough in itself.
Nuit Tombee was the only one that had me actually feeling anything : and I need to feel some poetry, some semblance of emotion, to fall for any perfume.
I sensed a tumbling forward; down; urged by the name no doubt – a dark valley of something that beckoned. Cloves. Cloaks. Japanese incense. I will be going back to try this one again.
I have no interest in Matiere Perfumes. Was gifted a sample of Radical Rose, nothing radical about it just a Dark Rose delivered at 200db via nuclear sillage & the half life of waste uranium. It wouldn’t scrub off & to me was too candied. The ethos of the line is to show off captive aromachemicals. It certainly does that & now has extraits in some of the flavours. Bleugh!
I do like Encejs Suave – and I did like Neroli Oranger until something on it started to grate on me – and I DO think he does use ‘premium materials’ – but as you say they are suffocated by all the massive aromachemicais. Which is probably why they are doing as well as they are.