PATRICK SUSKIND’S PERFUME BECOMES A REALITY

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According to an article I read in the newspaper the other day, it seems that it will soon be possible, at a price, to bottle the scent of our loved ones. Our deceased, dead, loved ones.

A French fragrance company has  devised a way to steep their scent – from clothes, their pillows and sheets they have slept in – extract the unique smell; and capture that fragrance, peculiar to the person alone, in a perfume.

I’m not quite sure how I feel about this. We all know how searingly evocative smell (and perfume) can be in its associative power to bring a person momentarily back to life or make the absent present – and I of course understand perfectly how the poignant smell of an unwashed item of clothing, or a used and unlaundered pillow case could be heart-piercingly painful when inhaled in a moment of grief: the desire to thus keep that smell for as long as possible; the knowledge that this physical remnant of a person will inevitably fade. But yet: the idea of this very private odour being recreated in liquid form for bespoke, commercial purposes (a bottle of your loved one will go for around six hundred dollars) still strikes me as somewhat macabre. It is ethically sound? Would the departed person necessarily have wanted these private smells to be exposed to these strangers?

To me, the concept is mortifying. Perhaps to some extent, my uncomfortable reaction to the thought of being ‘bottled’ is the idea of wondering what particular smell that exists in this teeming mass of cells and bacteria I call my physical self would be ‘captured’ ( I admit that the idea sickens me). Do we, in fact, only have one odour? Could I bear to have that unadorned smell analyzed; reconstituted; and packaged by women and men in white coats?

The unpleasant fact remains, for instance, that my own bedtime pillow is never especially fragrant. You might even say that it stinks. We live in a very humid country, and especially in summer, when I sweat, and it dries, and I sweat, and it dries (I am allergic to air conditioning so it has to be au naturel, and I don’t have the time for daily washing) and Duncan really starts wrinkling his nose, would he then want a parfum de toilette of that stench bestowed upon him in the funeral lounge in the event of my demise as an extremely expensively scented memento (and what would it then be called? ‘Dog In A Swamp?’) The sour-sweat smell of a stressed-out day?; the smell of my bath robe; the sickly aura when I’ve had bronchitis?

The hero of Patrick Süskind’s ‘Perfume’, Grenouille, was obsessed to the point of complete insanity with the odour of a flame-haired maiden in Paris that he scented one fine day on the air, a smell that so possessed him and maddened him that he had no choice at all but to kill her. White skinned. Beautiful. A virgin. A young girl whose natural body scent so entranced him that he eventually, after abducting her, succeeded in immortalizing her in liquid by enfleuraging her murdered corpse in fat until she had exuded every last drop of her natural essence and he could wear it himself as an elixir; an extrait, a scent so disorientatingly beautiful that he was then consumed and torn to shreds by the crowd. She was an unblemished angel, however, and I fear, that my own enfleuraged natural odour would not quite be up to this level of exquisite, instinctive refinement.

If I could be bottled at my very best, say post-bath; dressed in clean cotton, no deodorant; a walk in the sun for a couple of hours – that smell maybe I wouldn’t mind so much and it would certainly be representative of something. I don’t hate my birthday suit smell in the right conditions, particularly when sun-kissed and happy; horny and free. But even if this particular smell, which certainly isn’t present all the time, were ‘perfected’, would this still really bring me back for people who wanted to remember me? Are we that simplistic?

It’s hard to know if this venture, about to become reality in September, reeks of true compassion or whether there is an element of exploitation: the commodification of something that perhaps we should take with us to the grave. Of ‘perfumes’, kept alive unnaturally, as haunting, and literal liquid ghosts. 

And while the idea of these ‘perfumes’ is fascinating (if somewhat sinister), and I do definitely want to know more about the project, as I can see very clearly that the possibility of even the smallest olfactory glimpse of a person you miss keenly and would do anything to bring back could bring solace in some ways to the bereaved in the darkest moments of despair, at the same time, looking at it in a different way, couldn’t the virtual presence of that person conjured in that way through smell also bring only more torment? The cruel semblance of their corporeal realness, taunting you in the dark?

Even if the true olfactive memory of this person you have lost were kept alive to some extent in its rawness, in its almost pitiable humanity (the smell of hair always makes me feel this way), would you really want that person, in any case, to be reduced, concentrated, to just one intimate, bodily, smell? Could this not, in fact disrupt, almost corrupt even, the complicated beauty of their memory?

For its complexity, its romance, its commingling with a person’s natural smell and spirit, its ability to ignite the heart’s passions when linked to anyone we have known and loved, I know I love perfume, and I am pretty sure that I myself would rather not have this strange, creepy new extraction process done to me (and I would sign a legal order saying the same). At my funeral viewing, if you happen to be present, there may be a selection of perfumes on display to peruse, mull over, and you can see if any of them do the trick. To see if I am brought to life even just slightly. If not, you can just  sigh along to Kate Bush.

You will not be given the opportunity, however, to inhale the smell of my socks; my earwax; or my suit.

Those smells, and others I will have accrued in the meantime, I will be taking with me.

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NARCISSE NOIR by CARON (I9II)

 

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Narcisse Noir is to Caron what Shalimar is to Guerlain, or Nº5 to Chanel : the perfume upon which the house’s fortune was first established, that made its name, and that subsequently became a legend in perfumed history.

 

The destinies of these three very diverse creations were not to be similar.While Shalimar’s timeless vanillic beauty still feels relevant, purring and sexy, and N°5 – a beautiful, shimmering, and feminine creation – is still relentlessly promoted as the juggernaut that powered Chanel and one of the world’s bestsellers even to this day, Narcisse Noir, a shadowed and exotic creation, has completely faded into obscurity, known only to perfumisti, those who have worn it for a lifetime, and the dwindling number of people who still frequent the dusty old Caron boutiques on the Avenue Montaigne in Paris or New York’s Lexington Avenue.

 

Despite the very particular beauty of this perfume, it not difficult to understand why it would have faded from favour. Narcisse Noir simply smells of another age and time; of boudoirs, dressing rooms, heavy velvet drapes and black lace and crinoline; of dark colonial exploits and influence – I have always felt that this perfume smells very Indian – and, more importantly perhaps, a different kind of sensuality: this is not, by any means, a perfume made to seduce in the traditional light and floral manner by being virginalized, fluttering, and coy. Rather, the vintage parfum and eau de parfum of Narcisse Noir are, comparatively, mannish and challenging; deep,solidly assured: the erotic aggressive to your passive.

 

Essentially, this sunless, stygian floral is a rich narcissus/boisé/animale blend, based, so it is claimed, on an essence of Persian black narcissus, a prominent, citrus-glinted, tainted orange blossom, and heavy, civet-touched sandalwood and vetiver over the classic Ernst Daltroff mousse de saxe base, the musty and antique-smelling sediment in many classic Caron perfumes that is, in my view, the reason that these perfumes, though compelling, now simply seem too old fashioned to the average modern consumer.

 

This depends though. Nao, the dancer seen standing next to Duncan in my piece on Sunday night’s shenanigans, The Soft Touch, was immediately quite intrigued by this perfume when I offered it to her; an instant reaction of hai, this has fukami, depth, and definite fuinki- (atmosphere): she could feel the history and the stories rising up from it from one inhalation and I love it when certain perfumes gain such a reaction, suggesting their intrinsic appeal and beauty, no matter that they are over a century old.

 

In fact, the versions of this perfume I have – one particular vintage extrait and an eau de cologne ( whose box’s motif forms the header on this blog, along with a fresh narcissus flower from our garden – there was never going to be any other name for this website: narcissus, hyacinth and f*** being my three favourite words in the English language) – are not anywhere near as potent or as impressive as the bottle of Narcisse Noir I remember my friend Claire having at Cambridge: an eau de parfum that was wonderfully dense, compressed and above all, really definitively sultry in its strength and sillage: I once took her bottle when she wasn’t looking and heavily sprayed the inside of my flute case with it (which later became embarrassing when I would then have to open it at the trio practice I used to do at a baroque recorder cafe just down the hill from where we live – the smell lingered for years).

 

It was bewitching, though, this scent – the oil of jonquil interwoven with that malingering orange blossom and narcissus, but always, always with that plush dark carpet of animalic woods and musks underlining it that smelled like the smoke of Indian incense. It was a perfume that made you wonder, that drew you in even as it scared, and I can imagine it having been enormously seductive in the smoky atmospheres into which it debuted all those bygone decades ago, when the perfume was so current and successful that Caron could compete with Coty and his like in America; Caron’s big perfume: the scent of Gloria Swanson’s tragic Norma Desmond in Billy Wilder’s Sunset Boulevard.

 

 

 

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And on the subject of film, is this not in fact also the drowsy perfume that becomes the fatal undoing of the nuns in Black Narcissus, Powell & Pressburger’s brilliantly high-nerved thriller from I947, set vertiginously up in the Himalayan mountains; that strange-pitched and hysterical film about a group of sisters cloistered on a cliff-side convent, unravelling as warm, perturbing and sensuous winds form a mind-turning constant and the nuns’ precarious religious conviction gradually comes undone through their contact with the locals and the presence of men?

 

 

 

Is not perfume itself, in this masterpiece, the catalyst that leads to eventual madness and death as well as ecstatic liberation? Scent is the unavoidable presence that insinuates and lodges itself into the minds of these susceptible women on the fateful day that an Indian prince – almost impossibly sweet and pure of intention – enters the convent for English instruction – always in sumptuous jewels and white robes – and provides distraction from God. But it is his perfume – called Black Narcissus – that forms not only the title of the film, but also, seemingly, the central component that makes the nuns succumb to their vulnerable humanity and to the elements, the scent of his perfume emanating serenely but disconcertingly from his handkerchieves and making them then unable to think clearly.

 

 

 

 

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Can this perfume not be seen as Caron’s Narcisse Noir itself? The direct translation of the French from the name of such a famous perfume seems much too obvious to be a coincidence, even as it gains an extra magic layer in its starker, Anglicized transformation. Surely they are one and the same, and indeed, this perfume does really smell wonderful on a man: swarthy, royal; elegantly poised. I can imagine how the nuns must have felt when he walked into the room. Duncan, dressed as Echo on Sunday night, trying desperately to distance Narcissus from his mirrors; the gentle swathes of Narcisse Noir drifting from his person; and me,’The Black Narcissus’ in the audience, looking, reacting; inhaling him.

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THE SOFT TOUCH: : : TOKYO VAUDEVILLE ON A WARM MAY NIGHT

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Duncan (left) performed a piece on Echo & Narcissus.

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He is wearing Caron’s Narcisse Noir Extrait. Nao, the burlesque dancer standing to his right, is wearing L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Mimosa Pour Moi.

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The beautiful Yukiro, from Sweden,  is wearing Sisley Eau De Campagne.

Here: ready for action backstage.

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Miku Divine and Selena Monte Carlo, about to perform a hilarious skit on Chiquitita,  are seen wearing their own, pink and sweet perfume choices.

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Remiko, in a dress made by his wife, is doused in Annick Goutal’s Songes

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and Katy, one half of The Fig Sisters, is drenched in Gorilla Perfume’s Lady Boy.

It was a fabulous night out, and we are now in the process of recovery.

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TOKYO BULLET REVIEW # 1: THE NEW DIOR : FEVE DELICIEUSE (2015)

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Just meeting a friend in Shinjuku and thought I’d pop into Isetan, navigating the snooty maidens and looking for something new or interesting.

I don’t really like any of the Dior Prives, but ‘Delicious Bean’ comes perhaps the closest. A pleasing, if over buttered ( and HORRIBLY overpriced ) tonka/ cacao / vanilla that is quite rich, smooth, and edible and certainly worth a sniff if you like the gourmand type and need a new addition ( though I personally prefer the bitterer edge of Guerlain’s Tonka Imperiale).

Nice enough then, yes.

But nothing to get your knickers in a twist over.

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TOKYO BULLET REVIEW # 2: TOM FORD VELVET ORCHID (2014)

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A REPUGNANT SLICK OF HORROR

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SHOCK WAVES: : KENZO POUR HOMME (I99I) + + TIRRENICO by PROFUMI DEL FORTE (2008)

SHOCK WAVES: : KENZO POUR HOMME (I99I) + + TIRRENICO by PROFUMI DEL FORTE (2008).

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The wisteria tree at the station smells so bloody gorgeous, like a phenomenal hit of stargazer lilies; stocks; lilacs and purple jasmine that I swear it just made my pupils dilate

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I can’t capture its grandiosity here, but the smell just took my breath away.

An ORGASMIC smell.

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BELA LUGOSI’S DEAD: D’HUMEUR A RIEN by L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR (1994) and BLACK AMBER by AGONIST (2011)

BELA LUGOSI’S DEAD: D’HUMEUR A RIEN by L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR (1994) and BLACK AMBER by AGONIST (2011).

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FIVE SWEET INDULGENCES: ANIMA DULCIS by ARQUISTE (20I2) + L’HISTOIRE CHARNELLE by CREATIONS HUBERT MAES (2007)+ CARA by FARMACIA SS ANNUNZIATA + GOTHIC II by LOREE RODKIN (20I3) + NOIR TROPICAL by MARIA CANDIDA GENTILE (20I3)

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A strange thing has happened to me. I have gone off vanilla. And although I think I can trace the moment this happened (and some of you were there with me), it still kind of shocks me, having spent the most beautiful holiday of my life two summer ago on a vanilla plantation in Java, swooning with vanilla suffocation in the upstairs drying room as the beans gave off their woozy, heady smell, gazing at awe at the vines; and more than half a lifetime of being swathed in vanilla-based, sweet and orientalic perfumes.

(me sneaking out at dawn with a shaky iPhone, to take a short video of the exquisite environs of our little cabin (Duncan is curled up asleep inside) : Durian fruit, coffee trees, and papaya – which you can’t see –  but most of all snaking vanilla vines climbing up trees; workers in fields, and me in a state of in-the-moment bliss)

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I think that the Vanilla Talk I gave at Perfume Lovers London last spring just probably took me (and the collected audience) somehow over the edge (“I’m in a vanilla coma” said one attendee”), like a heroin user blowing his synapses with his final hit, or an alcoholic teetering over his own mental brink with his final bottle of Dewars. There was so much vanilla, what with my preparations and selections leading up to the event, to sampling and appraising various different parfums vanillés ad nauseam, to reading up on tons of vanillic historical and agricultural facts, that by the time the night was over and the air was replete, claustrophobed, and stinking with sweet, sticky perfumes that were being sprayed left right and centre during the talk itself (along with the savouring and appreciation of different vanilla bean varietals: Tongan, Tahitian, Indonesian, Indian…) and all the spraying of samples into little vials for people to take their vanilla fix home, that the sheer sensory overload, not to mention the volume of nervous terror that had preceded my first ever public speaking (I think it is probably more this, actually: that connection, in my subconscious: although I really got into my stride and eventually enjoyed it, meeting people and letting my passions show, my natural extrovert coming to the fore, before everyone arrived I was possibly more nervous than I ever have been in my entire life and was practically ready to hurl myself from the window. If Helen hadn’t been there to sort me out I think I might have). Perhaps this sheer adrenaline overdrive, anxiety, all compressed within the potent, deep brown sweetness of vanilla, was the catalyst that took my feelings for this beautiful substance from love and ease to quease.

I haven’t been able to wear it since.

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A perfume such as Maria Candida Gentile’s Noir Tropical, then, which I discovered at a trendy Shibuya shop along with four or five of the Arquiste range yesterday as we walked in a sun-filled daze after a hedonistic night in Shinjuku, just isn’t quite right for my current sickly-averse mindset, even if a deeper part of my brain stem is still instinctly drawn towards anything with the word ‘tropical’ in it (I was imagining some kind of dark, pineapple-permeated fug). In fact, this is a very well made, natural-bean scent with a pronounced sweet and tipsy rum and sugar cane note running underneath a sublimated almond interior, wafting for hours on the skin, with some vague similarities to Vanille Absolument/Havana Vanille by L’Artisan Parfumeur only more organic; rich; densely packed. There is definitely a sweating, hidden- histories-of-the-southern-seas aspect to this scent I can imagine enjoying this on someone else, but for the reasons I have already explained above, I just can’t go there at the moment.

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Some perfumes, particularly of the classical, ‘Golden Age’ school, are complex, gradated and layered, almost like symphonies or chamber works with different movements and emotions concealed within themselves only to be released, delicately, at a later hour. The modern niche aesthetic is often more of an ‘instant hit’ – what you see is what you get- even when the ingredients are of the highest quality. A Rothko block of dense colour rather than an dappling Impressionist painting: a potion or elixir, an accomplice. And although I sometimes miss the great pointillist balance of classical perfumery (the pure genius involved in controlling such a panoply in a way to make it sing), I also just enjoy a really good smell, if you know what you mean; a dot of deeply concentrated scent that you can just put on your skin, live with , and enjoy as it accompanies you throughout your day.

Loree Rodkin’s Gothic II and Farmacia Annunziata’s Cara are of this breed – rich, pleasing smells that will work if you like unadorned gourmand simplicity. Though the word gothic usually signifies something shadowed, sinister, vehement, Gothic II is anything but: it is homely, comforting, trustworthy, and easy. A deep patchouli heart (with both Indian and Tunisian essences,) is fused with rich Madagascar vanilla in the familiar, blocked, manner, although the addition of nag champa, incense and cloves produces a more overall effect of honey, an effect that continues for a long time on the skin until the patchouli and vanilla again come to the fore. What is good about this scent is that there are no rough or unpleasant edges detracting from the core theme, which, though a touch unimaginative and simplistic for me, is nerve-numbing, consoling, and potentially addictive.

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Cara is much lighter: a mere trifle, really, but if you like your almond and vanilla mixed together in one blend, this works nicely as a very light and airy-sweet mood enhancer, with a talcum caramel heart and fresher, almost sport-fragrance top notes that give the perfume an ethereal edge. It is hard to imagine a more unthreatening perfume (which isn’t necessarily a recommendation), but there is also a reassuring familiarity about it, a play-doh, vanillic halo that I can imagine swirling around someone in a clean eddy of light, veiled, childlike innocence (which is).

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L’Histoire Charnelle (‘a carnal history’) is another sweetened patchouli perfume, albeit with an unusual twist: a fruited, spiced, coconut aureole up top that to me on first smell smelled as though it had been buried in turmeric. There is an extremely dusty quality about this perfume (something I always associate with that spice), possibly the combination of nutmeg and cinnamon (and pear, of all things), alongside the tangerine and bergamot that, all combined, I find slightly offputting, even as I am tempted to smell deeper. Eventually, as the fizzy bristle of the top accord subsides, the coconut/vanilla/tonka theme then becomes more apparent and solidified, with the very lingering, resonant patchouli beneath consistenly making itself known and apparent. This is quite a sexy, unusual scent I would say, and it could make a good signature scent for a woman or man who wants to remains outside the loop, though I am not ultimately sure whether the perfumer, Hubert Maes himself, has all the disparate notes within the blend sufficiently sewn together.

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The same cannot be said of Anima Dulcis, a perfume that caused quite a stir when it came out three years ago when the new perfume house of Arquiste was launched by founder Carlos Huber. I immediately liked the range when I smelled them then in London at the Harrods Haute Parfumerie, particularly Fleur De Louis and Flor Y Canto as I just love well made, entrancing florals, but Anima Dulcis (‘soul of sweetness’) is also a very well-executed scent that quite appeals to me- a rich, deep, but appealing spice-chocolate perfume with a curious and unusual concept attached: a seventeenth century convent in Mexico (The Royal Convent Of Jesus Maria), the nuns absorbed in the preparation of of chilli-infused chocolate drink in the hallowed halls, strirring and chatting amongs themselves as they wait for the head sister, the only nun who can finish it (the recipe is secret). Like all the perfumes I am discussing today, this is another vanilla-centred scent with a strong patchouli facet, but here, there is much more heft, the main theme being a very brooding and hypnotic natural cocoa absolute, infused with cinnamon and chililes a la Mexicana ( I also always drink strong, thick,hot chocolate with vanilla bean and red chillies – I love it on a hot winter’s night). This idea is translated here very well into perfumery – everything is harmony. Though not as distinctive or odd as I was perhaps expecting it to be given the chilli idea – this is an eminently wearable perfume – Anima Dulcis strikes me almost as being a kind of next generation Opium: tightened, no way as leopard-printed and satin-scarved as that seventies classic, but still, sultry, dense and magnetic, and with floral orientalized reverberations of that orange-licked spice (It also quite reminded me of Histoire De Parfums George Sand).

I found myself going back to my wrist again and again as we headed home towards the station, the spot where I had applied the perfume a source of continuing dark, exotic scent: the level of sweetness just right, the vanilla – that beauteous, brain-altering substance – not dominating, here, lolling somewhere softly condensed down deep side within the blend, undulating, but still kept quite comfortably in check.

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The bewitched carnations : DIAMOND WATER & GOLCONDA by JAR (2001)

The bewitched carnations : DIAMOND WATER & GOLCONDA by JAR (2001).

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