BABY DOLL / YVES SAINT LAURENT (1999)
Knee-high nightie. Grapefruit, peach; a shrill, bitter note of pomegranate. Redcurrant, rhubarb: not quite Chucky, but there is still more than a hint of malevolence in Laurent’s Baby Doll. Wickedly fruity, sharp, and sexy – the prototype that launched a thousand copy-cats from rosy moppet-factories dotted across the landscape – this perfume is sweet but self-aware; bright, effervescent, and juicy; a pinky-floral laced with just enough insouciant wit and cynicism to prevent the whole from giving you toothache. The best of its type, and a very big hit in Japan.
PULP / BYREDO (2008)
‘Fruit basket’ can denote different things: a wicker bowl of cherries perched on apples, oranges and pears. Or a wilful kooky; a loop de loop. Pulp, by Byredo, is a touch of the former, but mostly the latter. The company itself admits that this creation is a ‘dramatic composition focused on the idea of a ripe, sweet, shapeless mass of fruit; an intense and unruly flavor.’ And fruity isn’t the half of it. This is a pinky, foaming, bilge of strawberries, peaches and blackcurrants, thrilling and tooth-rotting: one sniff and I was in James’ Giant Peach with all the creatures, partying and orgying at the core.