Monthly Archives: May 2013

SEX AT THE SOUK: NUIT NOIRE by MONA DI ORIO (2006)

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Nuit Noire is a shocking perfume.

 

If you are uninitiated in the work of Orio, please remember this before you try it; then the top notes – the most feral, urinous, and  sexualized flower absolutes I have smelled – might not make you topple over in panic, losing your precious balance. Which is a very real possiblity, as Nuit Noire – a powerful, orientalist evocation of a hot night in Tunis – is most definitely not for the delicate of constitution. What ends as a sophisticated and intriguing leather floral begins, triumphantly, with a concentrated tuberose, cardamon and very indolic orange flower (a polite way of saying faecal), that for the first few seconds is almost unbearably graphic. One’s olfactory mechanisms blush accordingly; you may well flinch.

 

 

 

 

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Essentially, with this unusual perfume we have the usual seduction in reverse. With a blinding orgy of sex organs and flower stamens we climax immediately.

 

 

 

Post orgasm, the sweat cools, the world fades back in, and we find ourselves serene and languorous, smoking post-coital cigarettes. Outside, the sounds and smells of Tunisia drift in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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SHOCK WAVES: Kenzo Pour Homme (1991)

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PROBABLY THE MOST POPULAR PERFUME OF ALL TIME IN JAPAN……. “THE SURF ZOMBIES”: : : : : INSENSE ULTRAMARINE by GIVENCHY : : : : (1994 – present, in annual Japanese remixes)

 

 

 

 

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Ultramarine, perhaps the most popular scent for men – EVER   – in Japan, is in my opinion, an absolute,  bottled oxymoron : a ‘morbid oceanic’, if you like, and surely the weirdest perfume ever to be a megahit (which it undoubtedly still is here, even two decades after its release: an extremely popular choice for the young surfer about town – so much so that if you smell a perfume on a man in this country it is quite likely to be this surprise hit flanker for Givenchy). Though nowhere on the best seller lists in other countries, in Japan it is considered something of a reference perfume, one that everyone knows will help you pull, a scent that is seen as definitively sekk-u-shi (….er…SEXY). To me, though, having been exposed to its ‘charms’ at close range on countless occasions, this cadaverous wave of nautical chemicals just smells like dirt-caked zombies, smiling; riding the morning surf with their rictus grins of joy as that salt comes crashing down on their uncrackable, sun-shining skulls.

 

 

Few perfumes make me react the way this does:  a kind of severe, mesmerizing repulsion where I find myself hypnotised by the seaweed death notes of the base, but find I have to soon move away to less perfumed climes – to some fresh air.

Perhaps it is that very algae that the Japanese love, though – the inexorable pull towards the ocean,  though I have to say there is a certain urgent, compulsive sexuality about the scent: a do or die, fuck-me-on-the-spot quality that must appeal to the rebel and outsider (and remember: only those who are a bit rebellious in this country DO wear perfumes this strong…)

 

 

 

The weirdness in the perfume that I keep referring to comes from a  deep registered, under-seafloor rumbling of acrid tobacco, cedar, cardamom and vetiver; a ‘blue’ accord of half-rotted marine creatures; some imaginary highnoted ‘waterfruits’ (sea cucumber? kelp berries?) and herbaceous, bright and minty citrus top notes – all the clashing, thrashing ultramingling octaves you could ever wish for in a scent.

 

 

 

I’ll give Ultramarine one thing. It is certainly unforgettable.

 

 

 

Yet despite the free-for-all mixes that keep coming out (‘Evening Dream’, ‘Beach Surf’, ‘Ice Cube’, ‘Morning Surf’, ‘Midnight Swim’ and many, many more, even a ‘Pour Elle’) I would say  that ultimately this one is only for the boys. I once did a ‘man to man’ private lesson with a youngish woman with an exsanguinated, grey-tinged pancake complexion who was maladvisedly drenched in Ultramarine.

 

 

It was really quite difficult to concentrate the lesson as I was so affected (and masochistically fascinated) by her scent….

 

 

Never mind the grammar: this was like being locked in a taxidermist’s overnight, or having my head thrust and held in an undertaker’s coat, cold; vicious; come directly from the formaldehydic, graveyard rain.

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THE HUNGER: : : MICHELLE by BALENCIAGA (1979)

 

 

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I love scents with hidden facets; secret folds; a sense of nether, and this obscure scent from Balenciaga’s disco-age is one such creation.

A boudoir: The Hunger: Susan Sarandon tumbling in vampiric ecstacy with her girl-lover in wind-blown drapes; billowing filigrée, tulle; soft-focused, kohl-eyed, endless trails of honey-white curls…..

 

 

 

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Apparently inspired by Cristobal Balenciaga’s favourite model of the 70’s, Michelle is suggestive, soft, with filthy underbelly, all concealed beautifully in a masquerade of big-eyed, girlish innocence. The main accord – peach/aldehydic, leafy floral of tuberose, orchid and gardenia, is similar in some ways to Paco Rabanne’s Métal (which also debuted in 1979), but in Michelle there are no harsh edges; all is willowing, dreamy; whispers of illicit, powdered musks and dusky coconut hollows. It is alluring, disturbing, and one of my very favourite tuberoses.

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LAST MINUTE PARTY PERFUME

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This morning I woke up and knew that the Shalimar thing couldn’t continue. For the party tonight I wanted to smell a bit macho, and yet I couldn’t quite decide what I wanted at that moment,  so I took in my bag with me up to Tokyo my Ungaro, Grey Flannel, and Eau de Campagne just in case the Shinagawa flea market didn’t yield.

 

I left naked today. Unscented. Strange for me, but I just wanted to see how I felt when I got there, knowing that at the market there might be something ( or nothing ); and so we walked down the hill, Duncan in his Parfums D’Empire Eau De Gloire ( which I think I like:  it is at the very least emotive: and evocative of something): me bizarrely blank canvassed (this is VERY rare), wanting to take the day as it came….

 

I haven’t been to the flea market for a while, but lord that place excites me, always, just in case. And today I got a vintage N°19 parfum for 1000 yen (ten dollars) – my favourite perfume – so was yippy aye ey-ing about quite happily as I also came across a beautiful stop-watch (pictured, with the aforementioned Chanel)…………………I have no interest whatsoever in timepieces but for some reason it grabbed me;  I had to have it, and I really love it for some reason. I feel something from it, something quite strong. ……

 

 

I also, ridiculously, found a LADY GAGA SINGING TOOTHBRUSH.

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WTF I hear you cry, and exactly, and so I had to have it, though it is a bit loud for night time use, a bit too stimulating (at the party we went to, the fact that the toothbrush was playing music louder than the mini stereo system they had on produced quite the hilarity), and as for perfume, well, I stumbled upon a bottle of The Perfumer’s Workshop’s  Tea Rose (1975) for nothing, vintage it looked, but who cares when it smelled so instantly rosy and perfect and thus the plan was set: five minutes from the house which we eventually reached I sprayed on tons of the stuff plus Ungaro, and ooh was it good: a bit Arab; splendid, engorged, the dirty rose lavender patchouli of the Emanuel playing off rather nicely I must say with the preciously fresh rose petals of the Rose (seriously, for those of you who need a simple, straight, unpretentious red rose perfume this is PERFECT)……..

 

 

‘How do I smell? ‘ I asked.

 

 

‘Like an echo chamber’ said Duncan……………… ‘heady’ (and that was enough for me….

 

 

– and worried though I was that I would stink the place out, people at the party did seem to like it…… )

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An interesting place, actually. On the top floor, and they had this West Side Story like fire escape, from which I took this picture. There was a piece of metal sticking out which produced an odd reflection. But I think you can feel the enjoyable atmosphere of the place, the neighbourhood.

 

 

 

 

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god I love Tokyo.

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SWEET STENCH OF HUMAN

 

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Two days ago I went to see, for the second time, the new David Cronenberg film Cosmopolis. It is a work, for me, of insidious, glacial beauty matched perfectly to my own visual aesthetic, and it had been surreptiously replaying itself in my mind ever since the first time I saw it in Ginza three weeks ago. It was still on in Shinjuku so I found had to go and see it again.

 

I write about Cosmopolis here because it strikes me as being one of the olfactively sensitive films I have seen. In fact, smell, and the bodied, fleshed realness of the human odour seem to be one of the film’s subcutaneous themes, embedded in its dark, redolent celluloid. It is a cold film, certainly, but sensuous, and one that got under my skin.

 

As the main protagonist, Eric Packer (Robert Pattison), a young self-made multi-billionaire in the finance world whose company is suddenly bleeding money on yuan speculation gone awry, crosses New York in his white, gleaming, high-tech stretch limousine (because, on a whim, he decides that “we need a hair cut”), he encounters various people from his sealed, cut-off world who are called to his car, spout insider information to him like automatons, self-absorbed oracles in a world that is quickly losing all meaning: beyond the bullet-proofed windows the cold, angry city threatens to engulf them and his security warn of a ‘credible threat’ on his life; anti-capitalist anarchists erupt in fury on the streets, the president of the IMF is assassinated on live TV, and figures from his disastrous financial losses flow endlessly on the car’s blue computer screens like thoughts in a brain; the armour-plated, sound-proofed, cork-lined car gliding slowly, imperiously through the streets.

The metal, glass and chromium of the monitors, the immaculate steel carapace of the limousine’s shining exoskeleton may all be conspicuously odourless, but as the film progresses, Packer, who begins the film spruced, impeccably, in his slim black Gucci suit and fitted white shirt (the ‘odour of sanctity’ of the privileged, obscenely rich world in which he lives very much intact), he begins to corrupt his hygiene with sexual encounters (one with art dealer Juliette Binoche inside the car), the stink of booze, and, bizarrely, a prostate examination by a doctor held while he is mid-business conference with one of his advisors, she herself rank and sweaty from a day of jogging and last minute panics to save the company’s skin. The smell of clammy human corporality is almost eerie in these scenes, and is depicted in almost angelical hypercontrast to the scenes featuring Packer’s wife (Sarah Gadon), a detached, minted member of the super-elite, who seems almost instead to represent cleanly perfection: a paragon of Caucasian beauty; poreless, with the flaxen, unattainable hair of the Upper East Side déesse, almost not of this world (because she isn’t).

 

 

 

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Through cinematographer Peter Suschitsky’s beautifully pellucid camera work we can almost smell her smellessness when the couple, like flawless extraterrestrials, meet in a diner among the lesser mortals of the metropolis, the camera honing in on each blonde hair (the light in this film, the extreme resolution of each image, is, on the big screen, really quite something). She is untouchable, smells of nothing, lies beyond his reach.

 

Recently married, the couple have had no intimate relations it seems (a situation Packer is most eager to rectify), yet every time they meet during this fateful day the smell difference between them seems only to intensify and make this possibility ever more remote (it is eventually the deciding factor; the smell of his lust and indiscretions the key in severing the union). Her porcelain aura becomes more impenetrable the more his becomes more rank and sweat-suffused : “You reek of sexual discharge” she tells him, and we know by looking at him that he does. Whether Packer takes a shower at any point in the day is unclear (there is a tryst at a hotel with his female body guard en route which would make this a possibility but it somehow seems unlikely), but Cronenberg ups the bodily awareness by also having him relieve himself in the limousine; we see on his skin the clammy, rising sweat of fear (he is threatened with assassination), can smell his loosening.

 

 

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Ironically, the worse this billionaire’s monetary situation becomes, the further he hurtles towards self-destruction, masochism, and financial destitution, the more he seems to feel liberated, and human. And as a consequence, in leaving his steam-pressed, odour-free cocoon and getting himself dirty in the grunginess of the soft-tissued world outside, smell, the natural excretions, become defining.

 

This is made explicit in the somewhat histrionic final scenes of the film where he comes face to face, in a foul, derelict building, with his would-be assassin, a more than disgruntled former employee who can no longer function in the ‘real’ world of business not only because he has come to hate everything it represents for him but because he does, as he says, “stink” ( “smell me“, replies Packer, in a moment of peculiar male bonding).

 

 

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And we believe it. Played by Paul Giametti, Benno Levin, is the very embodiment of malodour. We can smell him from our seats as he scuttles, troll-like, fetid, with a damp, dirty towel over his head, in a cat and mouse game with his former boss, yet the frank exchanges the two have are the most real in the film.  That Packer should discover his own humanity in his own personal stench this way struck me as very intriguing in a film that is not overtly about smell  – the (theoretically) fragrance-drenched cinematic adaptation of Patrick Suskind’s ‘Perfume’, for example, was much less palpably scented than this strange and perverse film, which, despite its pretences, was highly enjoyable.

 

 

I emphatically can’t recommend Cosmopolis to you outright, however, much as I loved it myself. Most people will, I think, find the film almost unbearably pretentious: for the arch, purposefully unnatural dialogue – often quoted verbatim from the (slated) futuristic novel by Don Delillo – the ‘lack of plot’, the portentous acting, and the general, slow, piquant artfulness of the whole; it was not very well-liked at Cannes last year and has had some disastrous reviews; but for me it was a quietly euphoric experience, a hypnotic slow burn, and very erotic.  The nubile flesh of Robert Pattison (who, crucially, had no smell at all as vampire Edward Cullen, in the Twilight Series, making him a compelling casting choice) is effulgent, real. Not buffed up and muscularized in the usual Hollywood narcissistic, self-conscious way, but soft-skinned,  porous.  Hard, callous, but vulnerable. Human, beautiful; the contrast with his fleshly descent into self-realization and the delectable glow of the cold, alienating landscape he inhabits, amounting, for me, to a strange, animalistic, and mesmerizing cinematic perfume. 

 

 

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DELAYED GRATIFICATION : VANIGLIA DEL MADAGASCAR by FARMACIA S.S. ANNUNZIATA DAL 1561

STILL MY FAVOURITE…

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D R O W N I N G I N V A N I L L A

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Regular readers of The Black Narcissus will know that I am a big vanilla lover, and that I recently cancelled a long-dreamed-of trip to Madagascar due to the horrific plagues of locusts that are currently threatening the country.

Although very disappointed by this (the sound of the words ‘Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla’, the majestically smooth type of vanilla grown in that mysterious country, has such a deeply gorgeous allure for me and I wanted to see it grown first hand there, go straight to the source), after a few days of frustrated locust-hate and self-indulgent mood swings, I decided to research further in my quest to scope the bean…..

OK WHERE NEXT….

The obvious place to look was perhaps Tahiti, as Tahitian vanilla is said to have a beautifully light, floral scent that some say makes it the best vanilla in the world; or else Mexico, the country to which vanilla is indigenous, and the only place where the orchids are pollinated by the original Melipona vanilla bee (they have to be pollinated by hand elsewhere….) Other research into vanilla production also suggested possibilities of Uganda, India, China, Sri Lanka..

Lush and paradisiacal though Tahiti might be, looking at photographs of the place, neither D nor I could get excited about the thought of going: luxe resorts for honeymooners: palm-trees, cocktails, snorkelling….not our kind of thing; too proscribed, ‘fashionable’, and removed from reality (and damn expensive to boot). Mexico we have been to before, and while the other vanilla producing countries did have some appeal, further sleuthing has led to another vanilla plan I am almost as excited about as my fabled voyage to Madagascar.

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In August, then, we are going to be staying on an organic vanilla and cardamom farm in western Java for five days, a family run enterprise that specializes in pesticide-free vanilla production, cardamom, turmeric, curcuma (a kind of ginger), as well as fruit orchards such as star fruit,  mangoes and mangosteens.  It is primarily a vanilla plantation, however, and we will be staying there, learning every minutiae of  how to grow vanilla from conception to nurturing the orchids, to harvesting, curing and extraction, visiting the fields, digging in, and experiencing it all first hand.

This ‘agri-business vanilla course’ even includes vanilla classes for two days, including a text book (can you imagine? Like going back to school, only the subject is nothing but vanilla (and cardamom, another smell I adore…quite excited about seeing those little scented critters being wrenched from the trees as well…..) Vanilla teacher, diagrams on the blackboard, endless information about vanilla planifolia……I only hope there isn’t an examination at the end – although the idea of  cramming for my ‘vanilla finals’ isn’t so bad…

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I am imagining that there will be so much vanilla everywhere that it will be like drowning in it, vanilla beans coming out of my ears…Duncan and I have already started referring to it as ‘the vanilla gulag’, trapped on the vanilla farm miles from anywhere (neither of us can drive)….vanilla vanilla vanilla, and the claustrophobic neurot in me worries that it might all be a bit much (also, I am not really the gardening type to be honest, more like someone who just wants to laze about in one; I would rather indolently watch others toil about the vanilla vines while sipping sweet drinks;  have the fruits of their labours extended to me for my perfumed inspection; but this time, rather than lounging it from some hammock, I will be there in those roiling temperatures, inspecting the roots,  sweating away and tilling the soil….

Still, I think it will be an absolutely fascinating experience, and I have to make sure that I don’t start blubbing upon seeing my first vanilla orchid in the flesh (not as improbable as it might seem….when we went on a tour of a Norfolk lavender farm once, I actually did shed tears as the distilled lavender vats produced their first drop of essential oil; all those years of using aromatherapy oils, it was my first time to actually see the flowers surrendering their souls, and there was something strangely emotive and beautiful about it……)

We are scheduling in a few nights of hedonism in Jakarta and Bandung first to get the dance and booze out of our systems (must play the part of English gentlemen once we get to the family); then once we leave the vanilla plantation, drenched in the smell of vanilla, which I am imagining will never leave my nostrils again, we are planning a long and languorous train journey across Java, to visit the temples at Borobodur, small towns on the way, and just read books, write diaries, and relax.

I am really hoping my adventure yields some revealing insights into vanilla, some new angles of appreciation, which I then want to share with you (as well as lots of prime Indonesian vanilla beans; did you know that the country produces twice as much as much vanilla as Madagascsar?) at my Vanilla Bonanza at Perfume Lovers London next year, where we can all luxuriate in vanilla pods and delicious, scented extravagance, together .

I am so excited!!

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