a flash of fruit and the night was mine………….BLACK ANGEL, DEVIL IN DISGUISE and SLEEPING WITH GHOSTS by MARK BUXTON (2012)

BLACK ANGEL WAS THE PERFUME THAT DUNCAN CHOSE THE OTHER NIGHT FOR OUR CHAMELEON PARTY, AND ONE GUEST, ALEX, WAS TOTALLY BOWLED OVER BY IT:

‘what IS that perfume, i could could (expletive) whoever it is right on the spot………… (always a good sign that a perfume is kind of working…).

The Black Narcissus

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Perfumer Mark Buxton, famous for his iconic creations for Comme Des Garçons and other houses, released an eponymous collection of scents last year comprising five striking, idiosyncratic creations that, surprisingly, despite their innovations, don’t seem to have been much written about.

I quite like them. Each perfume in this collection is pared down, simple, but plush and striking, and although the names of the perfumes might put us in mind of horror films, the morbid, and the ridiculous creations of Black Phoenix Lab, with their constant allusions to the satanic, the scents themselves are anything but.  Rather, I find the perfumes to be more like stark, modern, scented novelties: a blast of rhubarb here, of ginger or elderberry there, or of quince, Buxton choosing to overdose on one or two ingredients in each fragrance, an effect that draws and locks you in or…

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