BEAUTIFUL POISONS: FOUR PERFUMES FROM THE EARLY 90’s : Allure, Cabotine, Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme + Tendre Poison

The Black Narcissus







The perfumes of the nineties do not have the ‘loud’ reputation of many eighties blockbusters, though this was still a period when the big houses – Dior, Lancôme and so on, still invested a great deal of time and money on development before launching an ‘event’ perfume, and the results were usually equally characterful (which is why all four of the perfumes below are still worn today: will today’s mainstream releases (La Vie Est Belle, anyone?) have similar longevity?




I have never liked this perfume personally, while admitting that it is a perfect execution of its obvious ideal – to turn a pale-skinned girl into a flesh and blood (ginger) lily.

It is beautifully done; a host of fresh white florals with green overtures; in essence a ‘soliflore’ ginger lily achieved with other notes, but there is, to me, a false…

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4 responses to “BEAUTIFUL POISONS: FOUR PERFUMES FROM THE EARLY 90’s : Allure, Cabotine, Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme + Tendre Poison

  1. ninakane1

    I’m not overly familiar with these but like the sound of the Cabotine so will try. I recently bought a little vintage bottle of Tocade by Rochas and adore its sweetness and simplicity. There’s something quite complete yet understated about some 90s perfumes. They evoke vagueness; being absorbed in poetry or the tune of a particular song.

    • Oh lord Tocade is DIVINE: so underrated, so subtle yet plush. Much better than any of these, and it kind of goes with your Hypnotic Poison love.

      You in Cabotine would be an odd kind of drag.

  2. M

    Thank you for an evolving piece of art. This blog is intelligent, eloquent and poetic! Unfortunately I’m not good at commenting. I wish to ask if you if you have any experiences with Francis Kurkdjian? I’m very interested in his Oud extracts, especially the Oud Cashmere. Have you tried Nasomatto? I’m attracted towards animalistic scents, smoky or a bit narcotic. Do you enjoy the Byredo scents? I apologize for a handful of questions.



    • I love the questions; I love all interaction on here!

      Sadly I don’t think I am your man in terms of perfume tastes. Although I haven’t explored all those perfume brands you mention in full, on the whole I don’t like those thick, acrid woody scents ( read my review of Byredo’s Black Saffron ). If I had to wear Nasomatto’s Black Afgano for example I would be forced to kill myself.

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