SOMETIMES YOU MUST FLOUNCE IT AND FLAUNT IT AND GLOAT IN THE NOSE CLOUDS OF FUMES
LOVE IT , BATHE IN IT, CHOKE ON IT
DROWN IN IT
HOOKER OR NO , YOU CAN WEAR IT LIKE A HO
A BABE COMING DOWN FROM HEAVEN
SOMETIMES, THE CELESTIAL CLOY OF FEATHERS AND PINK AND POWDER, OF SWEET, PUTRID UNGUENTS, OF THIGH SLAPPING GLEE
IS A GLORIOUSLY GIGGLING KNICKERBOCKERGLORY IN THE FACE OF STALE INDUSTRIAL DULLNESS
OF DANCING GIRLS AT THE FOLIES BERGERES
AND ALL THE FRILLS AND THE SPILLS AND THE BELLYACHE,
ALL THE TEARS AND THE FRUSTRATIONS AS
WISTERIAS TRUMPET THEIR ALMOND HYSTERIA
AND HELIOTROPES AND ORCHIDS SEETHE IN THROAT-SWIMMING HONEY
AND ORANGE BLOSSOMS AND CHEEK – PINCHING ROSES
KISS
AND VIOLETS AND TUBEROSES PILLOW FIGHT AT GLOWERING MADAME’S,
AND PRACTITIONERS SWOON
WITH THE SUGARING FROTH
Love this post and the pics are fabulous!
And so is this ridiculous, heady scent that I only discovered yesterday at the brand new Tokyu Plaza in Ginza. It’s so over the top that it totally made me smile.
I discovered all these perfumes last summer, and I’ve been obsessed with this ancient beauty ever since (2 full bottles!). I love your description of her Belle Époque charms. It was worn at the première of Diaghilev’s ballet of the same name (as an article in Le Théâtre revealed — and it was advertised in the same issue). Yours is the first mention of the new rendition I’ve seen. Thank you! I am a loyal, if usually silent, reader.
No thank YOU: I love hearing about this. I am a total Ballet Russes freak myself (Petrushka is my favourite piece of orchestral music) and that whole period.
I smelled the range yesterday but this one blew me away. SO full and heady: and so rare to see an old perfume re-edited so beautifully convincingly.
When do you wear it? How do you feel in it?
Dear Ginza, You may be appalled to hear that I wear this perfume nearly every day (but then I found your blog because of my devotion to Narcisse Noir, and I wore Opium almost exclusively for many years, and Femme before that). I have a high tolerance for full-bodied scents! I had been intrigued by the article in Comoedia illustré that reviewed the opening night of “Le Pavillon d’Armide” in 1909 and mentioned the perfume: “ Vers la loge montaient les effluves d’un parfum troublant, si exquis qu’on se demandait quel bouquet pouvait en dégager la suavité pénétrante. Je sus bientôt…que c’étaient les emanations d’un parfum nouveau, composé par la maison Orzia.” Etc. The product endorsement was pretty blatant. I like to think that this orchidaceous scent conjures up the era and the aura of Ida Rubenstein and Luisa Casati!
How beautiful this is. I wish you would comment more often! And you are right: it is orchid more than anything else, really. I forgot to put that into this ridiculous post.
Thank you, how kind.
HA! This is the one I own FB of from the Oriza le Grand line. It’s drag makeup and granny’s knickers alright.
Portia xx
After I had put this ridiculous post up I did read your review, actually. Great minds think alike – this is a REALLY full on can-can – love it!
To be honest I think your post does the fragrance FAR more justice than mine. You capture the whimsy.
Portia xx
But I don’t think anybody liked the line about the ‘ho. That’s the problem with the perfume universe. Everyone is so f**** prissy. I always lose a reader or two every time I stray from the straight and pretty narrow. It really bores me, to be honest.
I DETEST CONSERVATISM!
I don’t know, I use ho towards myself in a fun and frivolous way but I didn’t grow up with the word used in a way towards me that would make it uncomfortable for me to hear or read.
There are plenty of words that I deem mildly offensive that are used in daily language, like gay meaning something shit or pansy meaning effeminate man.
Maybe women are trying to un-use some of the words that are a vocabulary of hierarchy, oligarchy and male dominance. Like we never use the N word for African Americans because of the connotations and historical context, not because those letters put together are intrinsically bad but because what they stood and stand for is repugnant.
In the end though this is your blog and you will write and express yourself in your way. You are a clever and interesting reviewer Neil and I will stay for a while if you can put up with my ramblings in your comments.
Sorry to go on so long, clearly you struck a nerve.
Portia xx
I LOVE your ramblings: I wish more people would do it (or COULD) do it.
Of course you are right, and I am actually sensitive to all the things you are talking about. But ‘ho is inherently hilarious, you just have to look at the word. Not in certain contexts, I grant you (i.e. a viciously sexist rap track, maybe) but in the context of ME writing it and in the context of a ridiculously pink ancient perfume, darling it works a treat.
Yes, 100% on board with that.
Thanks, I shall ramble some more anon.
Portia xx
Absolutely love your whimsical review of this scent. I have been interested in the line for quite a while now. Do you think this is a scent that I would find intriguing? I really am terribly curious about it now. I wouldn’t mind being a bit of a ho, even though I pretend to be quite the lady 😉 . Any scent that is redolent of La Belle Époque sounds like a sure win for me.
Seriously, Brielle, this line is DEFINITELY worth trying. They are full, belle époque style but still somehow (at least some of them), quite contemporary. This one is is really over the top, though. It reminded me a bit of L’Artisan’s La Haie Fleurie or whatever it was called: all orchids, powder, flowers flower flowers and satin and tulle. At the very least it would make you smile, like it did me. The kind of scent you would put on when feeling very carefree and and at the same time quite provocative. Overdose and you would get quite a few stares!
Well, I am convinced. I am going to order a sample of this and a couple of others in the line, to see what it has to offer. Thank you again for such exquisite and intoxicating writing, you really tempt me with your words.
Actually, I thought your Ho line was gorgeous! Funny, and unexpected, and totally evocative.