Either I am suffering from the onset of Covid 19 anosmia, or this is just a new nadir at Guerlain, but this thin, wan chemicalia makes absolutely no impression on me whatsoever. The pomegranate is sharp and ‘fruity,’ : the orange I can’t even smell.


Filed under Flowers


  1. Robin

    Aw, too bad. That’s a drag. Over the years I’ve looked forward to the new AA releases in late Spring — some have been quite good — and hoped we’d have a winner or two for 2020. Not to be, huh? Pity. Nice artwork, too, and promising lists of notes for each. Rats. Thanks for the gentle letdown.

    And I’m not going to even think about you being sick! Unfathomable.

    • I was actually in a fabulous state in Yokohama on Wednesday when I smelled these. Admittedly the sales assistant didn’t spray so much on the cards and I didn’t wear them on skin, but I thought they were cheap and pathetic. Rest to hear other opinions though and give them a second try – perhaps.

  2. I cannot remember where I read the review of these two, but the bottom line was the same as yours….a big disappointment.

  3. Guerlain is not going to get any extra cash in producing weak and boring scents.

    • That is the bottom line for sure.

      Another person at the counter seemed happy enough though. Some people are easily led. And at least it’s not as bad as Kiwi Tutti or whatever it was called – that was a real nosebleed

  4. Liz |

    I loved Mentallia and I can’t remember the name of the other one. I wish they wouldn’t discontinue their
    Aqua Allegorias!

  5. Deanna

    Not relating to the Guerlain items but to the sense of smell- I recently bought a bottle of l’artisan parfumeur, Oeillet Sauvage, a blind buy from Ebay, it was unboxed, and I couldn’t smell anything. Complained to the seller, and she suggested I might have Covid! Bit below the belt…
    I was reassured though by another Ebay
    buy, Shop Sample bottle spray of Shalimar extrait de perfume, 30ml, no stopper, no box, but smells like a
    If you keep your bottles of perfume boxed, perfectly stored in pristine conditions, or just knocking around where you like to see them and their bottles, does it actually make any difference, do you think it affects the strength of the fragrance?

    • I wonder: because I bought a bottle of Creed Virgin Island Water the other day and it has about 10% of the strength I remember. Virtually unscented. But the box is perfect, the bottle sealed.

      It is a mystery – a FACTICE

  6. matty1649

    I was really looking forward to getting a sniff of these Hoping that they reminded me of a fab holiday I had in Granada a few years ago.

  7. OnWingsofSaffron

    Oh dear, but truth be told: I have no expectations from the big houses anymore! None. At. All. I will buy vintage products (I bought a “Fumérie turque”, Serge Lutens, on Ebay, a bottle dating from 2006 — still waiting for it to arrive), but that’s it.
    Otherwise I am looking at niche. Of course, it’s like wading through an endless sea-meets-beach walk, combing through rubbish and seaweeds washed ashore on the one hand and slivers of amber and pearls on the other.
    Just one or two thoughts on new niche scents for me:
    I bought “Angel’s Dust” by Francesca Bianchi. I was absolutely flooded by the powdery, slightly metallic scent which has an amazing musky, slightly naughty dry-down. I feel however, it must be sprayed on freshly washed skin.
    Then: Hiram Green and his lovely Dilettante (now sadly discontinued due to lack of interest) as well as Slowdive. I adore honey, and gosh how lovely this one is. I sprayed his new Vivacious once: violets and especially carnations. Yet it is a little timid, and there was a Slowdive undercurrent so that I didn’t have that brutal must-have-impulse.
    Then Fathom V by BeauFort: I desperately wanted something new and green. I have a slight post-purchase depression—why did I buy it? There is a marine accord (well, obviously, what did I think?) which is a bit too artificial for my liking. Then it is a real powerhouse. Still Fathom V is stunning and assertive and something outside my usual rote.
    And then I bought two niche jasmine, both of which you wrote about. Madagascan Jasmine by Grandiflora and Savage Jasmin by Sana Jardin. I didn’t fall in senseless, rapturous love with either, but I do like both of them. Especially the Grandiflora has a magical first five minutes!
    And finally: Honkong Oolong by Maurice Roucel. It’s a scent which is produced by the Perfume magazine “Nez”. I must say I was really impressed: a fresh musk, tea and ginger accord. For 29 Euros, what can you want more? Now I am waiting for the new scent to come: Folia by Julien Rasquinet.

  8. Guerlain has been uninspiring me for almost 20 years now, since I last worked for them. Nothing has really caught my attention, nor given me a thrill like the old fragrances do, not even the newer versions of the classics; they just don’t smell the same.
    This is why I hunt down vintage bottles when the need arises. It is the one saving grace.

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