The first time I tried Chamade I thought they should have named it charade because it seemed like a whirlwind of phases. From the sharp, green hyacinth opening to the lush lilac & pink rose, then grassy galbanum, spicy clove, the almost dissonant Peru balsam & benzoin , and lastly you are left with powdery vanilla drydown- this fragrance was quite the shape-shifter. The upside down heart shaped bottle, symbolizing emotional overwhelm? cupid’s arrow? a teardrop? Such a gorgeously well thought out presentation & stunning composition. As they say, “That’s love!”
As Jean Cocteau fiercely put it :
“Sun!
Change my odor, and my colour,
the way you’ve changed Hyacinthus, into a flower” *
P.S.: By serendipity, I’ve been reading about a banned hyacinth compound today, the bromostyrene.
I’m no chemist or perfumer. But I was toying with the equivalent of wikipedia for fragrant compounds. And chewing some informations on my way. Turin quoted TheGoodScentCompany, and indeed its a goldmine.
The first time I tried Chamade I thought they should have named it charade because it seemed like a whirlwind of phases. From the sharp, green hyacinth opening to the lush lilac & pink rose, then grassy galbanum, spicy clove, the almost dissonant Peru balsam & benzoin , and lastly you are left with powdery vanilla drydown- this fragrance was quite the shape-shifter. The upside down heart shaped bottle, symbolizing emotional overwhelm? cupid’s arrow? a teardrop? Such a gorgeously well thought out presentation & stunning composition. As they say, “That’s love!”
Absolutely what you say: it keeps morphing, and beautifully. Decadently sexy underneath :tremblingly pure above. I adore the hidden layers.
As Jean Cocteau fiercely put it :
“Sun!
Change my odor, and my colour,
the way you’ve changed Hyacinthus, into a flower” *
P.S.: By serendipity, I’ve been reading about a banned hyacinth compound today, the bromostyrene.
I’m no chemist or perfumer. But I was toying with the equivalent of wikipedia for fragrant compounds. And chewing some informations on my way. Turin quoted TheGoodScentCompany, and indeed its a goldmine.
* From the poem Batterie.
http://www.florilege.free.fr/florilege/cocteau/batterie.htm
“Soleil (…),
Change-moi d’odeur et de couleur
comme tu as changé Hyacinthe en fleur”
**
http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/search3.php?qName=bromostyrene&submit.x=0&submit.y=0
Then I found that sort of wiki (quite indigestible, but free too)
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/4-bromostyrene#section=BioAssay-Results
Then there was the IFRA (big bad villain, but gives shared knowledge to amateur indiscriminately)
https://ifrafragrance.org/64af6632-a99a-46d6-ba14-514d845c2a48
Answer : It was axed for sheer precaution principle, by lack of evidences.
Wow.
When I have a quiet hyacinthine moment I will check it out