ILIO by DIPTYQUE (2021)


Diptyque scents have lost some of their bite recently . And the latest, Ilio, a citro-fruity jasmine fig or prickly pear number with Iris and bergamot, facets, is sweet and simple, but to me a bit sickly and nauseating. I had to wash it off.

Never mind.

I have just come from the vaccination center, after my first dose, via Diptyque, to the jungle garden on the roof of a Yokohama department store, where I am now celebrating the moment in the sun.



34 Comments

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34 responses to “ILIO by DIPTYQUE (2021)

  1. Robin

    Good. You finally joined the club. First vaccinations look good on you.

  2. What Robin said. I did not care for ilio either, but Eau de Minthe and Riha, although not ground-breaking, are both okay.

    • That last one you mentioned wasn’t there yet – sometimes things arrive in Japan a bit late. Orpheon I tried as well; not bad, woody, a bit hot springy, but I found it a bit dull. In the past they were a lot more daring and bracing. I think of Olene, for example, or Philosokos, or L’Ombre Dan L’Eau. And of course the shock of the cumin armpit that is L’Autre. Right now, every release is super safe.

  3. Truc N.

    I don’t know why Diptyque is so strong in their candle scents but so weak in their perfumes. I sometimes wear the John Galliano room spray (which I think was done by Olivia Giacobetti), but not a single one of their personal scents ever caught my interest. My favorite candle of theirs is Mousses, have you ever smelled that one? It is magical, and if I could have a perfume like that I’d die happy!

    • I will go back and see if they have that one – the Yokohama concession had a wide selection of candles, but it is all roped off, and you are allowed in one at a time for sensible Covid precautions, but I felt as though I couldn’t stay too long. I was expecting Ilio to be more gorgeous.

      • Truc N.

        It smells very strongly of earth and petrichor, if you’re into that kind of thing. The forest floor, green growth and what I want oakmoss to smell like on me (but it never does). I imagine my pupils expanding into infinity whenever I smell it.

        Also congrats on your first jab, I got the J and J one so only a single jab for me. It was surprisingly emotional.

      • Glad to have that corroborated.

        And :

        ‘I imagine my pupils expanding into infinity’.

        If I loved it that much I would find a way to WEAR the candle. Couldn’t you find a way to scoop up some of the wax into a mini pomander or locket with perforated holes?

  4. Congratulations! You picked a magical place to celebrate. A jungle forest on top of a department store is some place I’d like to visit and your shirt matches the vibe perfectly. I hope you breathed a big sigh of relief tonight.

    I’ve yet to find a Diptyque I like. Poor husband didn’t know that and bought me a rather large travel set for Christmas. Either my nose and/or skin do not jive with this house. I do love the Feu de Bois candle. The room spray is also great but impossible to find in the US.

  5. OnWingsofSaffron

    Bravo! In 4-6 weeks the second jab and all will be well. I hope Duncan too will get his vaccination soon.
    I‘ve had both jabs, and I must say I feel so much safer. Nevertheless, we still all must wear masks in closed public spaces.
    Apropos Diptyque: I find their cosmetics quite compelling. For instance, they have quite splendid creams for body and face.

    • Ooh – I had never considered them. Somehow, everything is so PERFUMED in their range I can’t imagine putting anything of theirs on my face. Which ones do you like?

      D’s first jab is July 24th, which is when I get my second. He will get his second at the end of August (they are doing quite well here with the spacing: once the Japanese bureaucratic machinery starts finally working, it starts REALLY working). As you say, we are not going to go crazy, but even having the one inoculation I felt IMMEDIATELY better. Like I had entered a new chamber in my mind; or an old one I haven’t been in for a while. I had a fantastic day.

  6. Shabash! (fantastic!)
    Diptyque seems to be veering ever mainstream. Philosykos is my fave from the house. Terribly expensive for how shortlived the fragrance is though.
    I am wearing a sample of YSL Libre today, another candied lavender thing like Mon Guerlain with fluffy white laundry musks and a hefty and rather cloying dose of ethyl maltol. Yawn.

    • Why did you do it to yourself, when you know how much you hate that note? I must admit though, I have hovered by the YSL counter in Fujisawa thinking I should at least try it once, just for the sake of the knowledge.

      Philosokos is good: I once had the perfume solid, which is less green, but is quite nice for discreet, figgy dabs in the hot summer. I wouldn’t mind getting it again, actually. Thank you for reminding me of it.

      • ??? I had a sample of Libre from my last trip through Delhi Duty Free. The tiny cardboard encasement if the spray tube said it was: “A fragrance as a shout of freedom, the freedom to live everything to the fullest.” Yippee!
        The notes were listed as “Orange blossom flower, Lavender, and White musks.” None of the telltale guises of ethyl maltol were on listed like toffee, candy floss, raspberry, strawberry jam, burnt sugar, praline, etc.
        And KABOOM! 10 minutes after application the lavender and orange (oil not flower) bliss turned to the usual department store dreck of ethyl maltol cotton candy and saccharine ethyl vanillin fluffed into oblivion with white musks. It’s not horrific, just boring. I would imagime this is what a US Millennial office worker would want to smell like as it is reminiscent of the 90s. Not my idea of living to the free & fullest, that’s for sure.

      • At least now you know.
        The lavender was a lie.

      • Robin

        When I tried YSL Libre at the drugstore, I got in the car, held the top of my hand to Ric’s nose, and he recoiled. Same reaction with Lancome Idole on the top of the other hand.

      • We’re talking the same kettle of fish.

  7. Tora

    You look so happy, tropical, and relieved! I know that when you are fully vaccinated and two weeks post that, you can really feel so much more at ease. I adore my Diptyque 34 Boulevard Saint Germain and Baies room sprays and candles. I do like my L’Ombre Dans L’Eau perfume oil in the summer when I am in cassis and rose kind of mood. I do think their scents are better suited for diffusing in the air. I must try Mousses that Truc N. mentioned!! Cheers, Neil!!!

    • Cheers to you too. It really is a moment of celebration, isn’t it? which is why I was wearing the tropical shirt, even if everyone else in line was in their white shirts and black trousers. We have had to wait six months longer than many people in the US and UK. The threat was obviously less, but the feeling of vulnerability was constant and incredibly exhausting. I am ready to put it behind me now. x

  8. Congrats, and looking forward to part 2!

    • Bring it the F*** on. I am assuming you have already had both?

      It is certainly a curious sensation, not knowing quite what is flowing in your bloodstream, and wondering if any second you are suddenly going to feel heavy-limbed and awful, but I somehow knew I wouldn’t. Just a slight tingling in the scalp and a momentary sore shoulder.

      And then : SAYONARA

      • Glad it went well for you. Yes, I’ve had both doses and each time had arm soreness, the second time with some swelling, but nothing systemic. I’d never heard of the scalp tingling before.

        I haven’t tried Ilio but it’s interesting that you found it cloying, because I’ve had prickly pear ice cream and there’s a ton of sugar added, as prickly pear on its own isn’t very flavorful.

      • It is rubbish : bypass this banality !

        36 hours in, my arm is sore and I have slight muscle aches, but am still feeling it was worth it.

        ESPECIALLY ON A BUS WHERE YOU’VE GUESSED IT. … ALL THE WINDOWS ARE ( = WERE ) SHUT

  9. AmyD

    So thrilled for you!! Enjoy the sun, the heat, the flora, and that sweet sweet shot.

    Given how fashionable the house is, I’ve been consistently let down by Diptyque perfumes. Olene is a bit wan for my jasmine tastes (I’m picky, though – I can’t do the strong naphthalene of Jasmin Full either). Do Son fades far too fast to justify a full bottle purchase. Compared to the candles, sometimes the skin fragrances feel like an afterthought…

    • I personally find Olene very rasping and intense: I tried that one again yesterday to see if it was how it was as I remember it, and it was. The Italian translator of my book had an issue with my review of that one, saying that the in house perfume expert had also said it was a ‘soft perfume’, but I seriously can’t see it that way. Even yesterday I was thinking Whooah this jasmine is FULL ON.

      • AmyD

        Maybe it’s because I haven’t tried a spray of it, just a decant vial. I should get a spray and douse myself, perhaps!! But maybe that’s the case with vials of jasmine for me – I found the same thing (wan and disappointing) with Keiko Mecheri’s jasmine…I hope I’m not misjudging too many amazing jasmines!

      • I think this is an interesting point though actually : spraying really does change some perfumes. I would like to try the opposite with Olene because I sometimes like just a light dot of jasmine for personal pleasure.

  10. Karina

    Hooray for vaccine!
    I 100% agree with your take on Ilio. I also wanted to wash it off. I left it though – giving it a chance to do something interesting in later stages of development. But nope. No relief.

  11. So happy you have your vaccine now!!! The photos are gloriousand ever so uplifting.
    Diptyque fragrances have been going downhill for years, they are not anything as nice as they used to be. I have a few older ones that I still adore, but all the new ones are completely meh.

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