T’is Shalimar season.
The last night in London this August I met Olivia, who was moving house and downsizing her estimable and beautiful perfume collection. While much of the prized loot was going up on eBay, the most treasured and used bottles going with her to the new abode, she very generously (my eyes were like saucers) ‘wondered’ if I would like to have anything for myself, from a selection she was willing to part with.
As a shameless Shalimarholic – some readers may remember that I got a giant vintage eau de toilette last December for my birthday: once it gets cold it becomes my go to on weekends – there is nothing like it for a wrapped up night out in the city - I was intrigued to find out how this one would play out on skin as I had never properly worn it in depth before; as a former Vanilla Boy, I still do from time to time like to indulge in some podwork, the creamy black speckled bean always having suited me down to a T, and so I couldn’t resist taking O up on her generous offer (I also brought back in my suitcase a vintage Rive Gauche plus an original Shiseido Feminité Du Bois, both precious and gorgeous).
Sticklers for detail will be asking themselves yes but which Ode A La Vanille are you talking about? Sur La Route Du Madagascar, Sur La Route du Mexique or just the plain ode? There are subtle differences, as there will be with any perfume using extracts from specific varietals (I once stayed on an organic vanilla plantation in Java where I studied the production and harvest of the orchids as well as doing a talk on Vanilla at Perfume Lovers London where we discussed and analyzed beans from all over the world including Tahiti and Uganda). I am no expert, but familiar with some of the differences; the thing is, the three bottles Olivia had brought out for my consideration had been separated from their boxes, and it was difficult to know for sure which ones we were looking at (smelling). Choosing one of them instinctively-I think it is probably the Madagascar, the hidden vanilla at the bottom of the perfume just spoke to me more when I sampled it from the bottle cap – I waited until winter here before starting to wear it and it has become a real joy – the contents are dwindling fast : I need to put a lid on it.
What is fascinating about Ode A La Vanille is that unlike Shalimar special editions such L’Initial, Lite/Legere, Souffle etc, all eager sycophants that some might prefer but which I just find slightly irritating, Ode smells almost exactly like the original vintage Shalimar, just a little less acidic – definitely less lemon – and dries down in precisely the same delicious fashion; the ambery, opoponax leather and powder, that sense of being papoussed in warm splendour; the vanilla not remotely conspicuous; but sometimes, at particular moments, you suddenly catch a drift of the purest vanilla on your scarf; inadvertently from the fur of your cat where you have been stroking her; the vanilla a perfect augmentation.
I missed the Odes. I sold my Millisime after taking a decant, much preferring the Millisime Tonka. The vanilla Millesime was close to SDV that I already own. Smokey vanilla
Never smelled that one – I went off both Spiritueuse and Tonka Imperiale eventually
Shalimar Millisime Tonka was last years Shalimar Ltd Ed flanker. So good I have two bottles!
Sounds lovely
I agree that the Ode de Vanille Madagascar and the Mexique are so so Shalimar. I too, have been reaching for both, though I prefer the Mexique for some reason. I am so glad you get to wear it this winter. I also adore Rive Gauche and I just recently rediscovered my old bottle in the back of my cupboard. You are lucky to have the Shiseido. What a good friend Olivia is!!
I know. I was thrilled with all of them !
Beautiful presentation depicted captured images is a understatement I am more interested you came up with that name title there has to be a story behind it guaranteed!✈️
not quite sure what you mean sir – please do elaborate
I love the Madagascar version and will wear some to bed. You describe it with the usual laserlike accuracy, N. I can imagine how well you wear it. So orchestral. I think it must be hard to find now. It is classic Shali . . . with bells on.
Divine. I also get – and I know you will know exactly what I mean by this – that inbuilt Shalimar Limited Syndrome after wearing it too much for a while, where I feel like washing all my clothes a couple of times and starting back with something fresh. It is as if I am gorging myself on it then one day just wake up feeling dirty
Exactly!
It’s that creosote note in the vintage for me. Black, sticky, tarry. I feel as though it’s clogging up everything after too many layers of it.
And yet sometimes the nerves do need clogging!
It’s my mom’s only perfume when I was a kid. I remember I opened her drawer to sniff it secretly.
The perfect perfume nut’s beginning. That ‘secret’ thrill aspect to a precious scent concealed somewhere is what it is all about.