america

I would actually have really liked to go to New York. Chicago strikes me as too cold – I don’t feel a pull. Boston might have been nice – I have friends there, one now working at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, and I could have met up again with the lovely Ida Meister from Cafleurebon along with the fabulous John Biebel from Fragrantica – and chewed various cuds. Baltimore has an inexplicable appeal – perhaps because of Nina Simone, John Waters, The Wire. I think I would be weirdly fascinated by Las Vegas. Would like to see the light in Alberqueque.I have never felt the slightest inclination for Washington and its Grecian sterility; its ugly suits and red and blue ties. Seattle- I am sure it is perfectly nice and the rain trope may or may not be true but for some reason I can’t entirely be bothered. The same goes for anything or anywhere Ralph Laurenesque – apologies to Massachusetts – I am sure the conifers are lovely – but I can find no appeal. I am not massively drawn to gargantuan open spaces, nor arid terracottas and ochres or any similarly dun colours and have no interest whatsoever in the Grand Canyon – or anywhere similar. I would like to go to the South to hear the accents, feel the charm. Memphis; Graceland. Georgia peaches. To live inside a road movie, like Wild At Heart or Thelma And Louise. But then there are all the guns. Oh dear. Not a fan. We saw a documentary the other day on Timothy Mcveigh and his bombing of Oklahoma – and all the pointless, pointless, carnage it wreaked; I hadn’t realized until this week that the main motivation for the attack was to start a war with the government over the ‘right to bear arms’.

The Wilderness and the National Parks are all very well – but I like my nature on a more intimate scale. I can’t see myself in Alaska. White water rapids don’t thrill me. I like a dangling stream, a brook with weeping willows, bluebells. I can imagine Atlanta having a buzz but don’t like the architecture. That would probably also go for many a city. I didn’t really take to San Diego. It’s all probably immaterial now in any case.

I have been to American three times (if Hawaii counts – hated Waikiki but loved the deeper parts of Honolulu), and I found all those trips eye-opening, exhilarating. I despised the theme parks – , the sickeningly sized junk food, the bucket sized sodas, the grinning plastic mascots sucking up money; the traipsing flip flops, sagging white t-shirts and shorts, but did love the general friendliness and courtesy – that warm coziness you don’t always get in England or Nippon – and I pray all that won’t go to hell with all the strife of the current Dictatorship because that was always the US’s ‘superpower’ – that optimism; that unbridled sense of possibility- though I realize, of course, that all this is fast becoming a sorrowfully, curdling cliché.

I adored New Orleans. Hove Perfumery. The mysteries of Louisiana; the swampish wet heat; the crocodiles and tree moss. The Lana Del Reyness of it all. I dream of an entire summer there. Miami felt dangerous, threatening — but thrilling. We had some very beautiful Joni Mitchell moments in San Francisco, another city that entered my bloodstream and memories for all of time. Los Angeles felt like a shimmering drug: dark; spellbinding.

New York. Sigh. We have some very close friends in Manhattan and they have an extra apartment in which we could stay. I would have loved to. For a few weeks – to just stroll around all the familiar unfamiliarity; the bridges, the brownstones; breathe it all in. ‘Hang out’. To have absorbed the legendary energy: all those films I have been watching for half a century with the city as their main protagonist- I feel as if I have been there already. But that scripted, selectivized unreality might now have to suffice. For me, actually going there right now would be impossible. Another friend from the big city who was back in Tokyo recently for cherry blossom season also sent me an obliviously cheery invite on Messenger the other telling me to ‘come stay in Brooklyn sometime soon.’

Yeah right.

This isn’t about ideological objections. Or anti-American sentiment. I honestly think the world would be boring without US culture: I feast on so much of music, the films, the TV shows and always have. I socialize with a lot of Americans. Most of my readers on The Black Narcissus are American. We have been friends and mutual, meaningful confidants for years.

No, this is primarily about personal safety. Put simply, I am not the kind of person who would survive a detention center. Travel in the US was bad enough as it was. Rude, callous airport staff prodding you along like cattle; intentionally hellish, smirkingly inducing agonizing waits at immigration in Dallas waiting for a transfer flight into Orlando; snappishly overtired and impolite airline staff ; helter skelter boarding procedures that left you running and breathless; the indignation and suppressed fury at all the unnecessary, blunt and uncouth maltreatment of a traveller that could easily ruin any good times you had just had in the country – and want to practically kiss the tarmac at Haneda or Narita – or even my detested Heathrow – Airport on your eventual return.

With the new restrictions on ‘aliens’ – (why does the ever constipated Orange Torpedo hate foreigners so much ?…how can this ultimately benefit American society? ), entry into the US has become a very fearful minefield. Yesterday I read that Japanese applicants for even the most simple of visas – the fabled ESTA – have to submit five years worth of social media to the ‘authorities’ for inspection prior to entry just to make sure there isn’t anything ‘contentious’ in their daily posts (I believe this is a neo Mao-esque Cultural Revolution of potentially disastrous proportions) —- or else risk being detained or imprisoned, put in shackles like countless other well meaning, dollar spending tourists from all around the world just wanting to have a good time in the good ol’ US but who then disappear for days, weeks, at a time in cold cells in total despair for no reason other than xenophobia and state-sanctioned sadism, insulted and humiliated for simply wanting to have a ‘holiday’ in the country………No. there is no way in HELL I would even consider, for a moment, trying to go to the so-called ‘Land Of The Free’ in the near future — —- and possibly ever again. You can stick it.

I have been writing about The Creature for eight years. Though ostensibly – and actually – a perfume forum, this was unavoidable. To have said nothing would have been like a slow death of asphyxiation with inner cyanide. I had to. But if I were to foolishly attempt to tiptoe into the States, I would, now, like so many other people with brains, be an immediately apprehendable target for the screen-surveilling, arrogant and ego-sapped Men And Women With Earpieces that pervade all points of overly zealous US entry. Like so many others, I felt the menace the very first second I laid eyes on The Basilisk – and heard it speak. I knew everything. I felt it viscerally, profoundly. People said I was overreacting. I was not. The only impulses – all monstrous – are destructive; this is nothing but a raging vortex of negativity. An ogre, overbrimming with the dark contaminations of personal childhood insecurity; daddy’s little victim. And I could sense this. I could feel it in my nervous system. I still can; but try, my best, on a daily basis, to selectively view. A friend of mine said on the phone last Saturday that he has decided to put up his own tariffs – purely for psychological self-protection. To try and keep all the infernal tides at bay.

It is all a living nightmare. Even if, in some crazy hypothetical scenario, I were paid to travel to America, as I was two years ago in Hawaii, I would now unhesitatingly reject the offer within a split second. I wouldn’t even entertain the idea of travelling in that physical direction. His plans for a Third Term are not a joke. They are real. He could straddle the country for many years. Take it down with him. Democracy is going down the tubes. That is precisely the goal. The dismantling of everything, just for the sake of dismantling it. To vaunt power. To smash things like jealous toys. Fists raining down with puce-faced apoplexy. With virtual impunity. And yet I am still hoping, in the more optimistic vaults that still lie within my internal reaches, that all the shellshocked Americans who are surely not this stupid as to accept what is going on right in front of their faces and are just quivering in their condos will in fact, start to wake up at some point in the very near future and actually do something. To fight back in some meaningful way. But is this really possible at the current moment? the stranglehold that this enraged, boot-polish-faced, stomping geriatric toddler has on everybody around him is so all consuming and irresistible, it is like a enravened python gnawing rabidly on its own tail; eyes bulging; poison spreading; the hatred and vindictiveness and sheer evil and cruelty of the regime so addictive for all those with their own furious lacks and lonely inadequacies that they lap it up like famished coyotes. Musk with his chainsaw, his Nazi salutes; Eyeliner Man with his malicious twisting of Catholic doctrine whispering in the ear of the pope just this Easter Sunday – the kiss of death? — as d messages me immediately after, an angry, callous anti-Christian with no actual, real love for humanity as Jesus is said to have preached; just bleak, empathy-less, fascistic, deportational yearnings. Policies based on a complete lack of generosity -and love for your fellow man, the very basis of Christianity itself. So bless you, Francis, while dutifully giving JD his little Vatican tie pin souvenir as a sanctimonious keepsake, and – though on the very verge of death, for having had the conviction and the moral courage to justly, and calmly, put that hypocritical upstart in his place. RIP.

Argentina. I would still like to go. I would love a weekend in Buenos Aires drinking cocktails with d and new friends in some velveted bar. A spot of tango. And Santiago. The snow-capped vistas in the urban distance. Chile has long had a strange kind of appeal for me. All the space. I have also always wanted to travel to Brazil, one of my childhood dreams. But it is so far away from here. And if we did, would we have to stopover in ‘the US‘ ? The number of governments putting America on its travel advisory lists now treats America as though it were a Sudanese war zone in Khartoum – and it is growing by the minute. The country is no longer safe for foreign visitors. Who could have imagined this just a year ago? The British website warns its citizens – particularly non-straight individuals such as myself- that we are, to a large extent, taking our life in their own hands if we just naively think we can go to America and get back home when we plan to; that we could in fact be secreted away into interrogation rooms in inhumane conditions (W H Y ? !! ) and deported with chuckling malice and scorn by the gut-belted, power-tripping security guards (the sound of Latinos in chains being sent to El Salvador supposedly a ‘deliciously soothing AMSR?’ One of the most repugnant things I have ever heard).

No. With everything I have written on here and on social media, it is no secret that I am no admirer of the Malignant Tangerine. They would have me in no time. Indicted on arrival. The second I got near customs. Like the French professor whose laptop was taken and his entry immediately denied. There is no free speech any more – it is being eradicated by the second. But that is OK. I will just have to travel elsewhere. I have been to Mexico. That will have to do for now for further excursions into The Americas. I can live without scaling the Macchu Picchu. I will stay closer to hom. Japan is not perfection – nowhere is – but good god does it seem like paradise right now. Today in Kamakura, with its new green leafage, just flowering peonies, wisteria; its calm civility, its aestheticized peacefulness and alluring history, the holistic whole of the place, the breath of centuries, the total unconfrontationalness and general positivity of the atmosphere – to float about in this city this dreamy afternoon made me feel very happy indeed. True, a part of me is quite sad that I may not, in this lifetime, get to travel again in that Other Place – that vast, open country- with its alarming, but often endearing in- your-faceness and honesty; a country that in many ways I found so complex, bizarre, stimulating – and often exciting. But last night, as I binge watched Season Two of The Diplomat on Netflix on the sofa alone (an engrossing US geopolitical thriller starring the excellent Keri Russell and a searing Allison Janney in continously brilliant Anglo-American verbal repartee with the sardonic Rory Kinnear as the British Prime Minister), absorbed yet again in a decidedly imbibable and relatable piece of American culture, I realized that from now on, streaming the culture from afar, without venturing near it ever again in person, might be, realistically, the only American Travel option for the rest of my life. I am happy to keep all that vengeant baloney at full arm’s length. I don’t want it. What’s to like? Last night, when I was thinking about Trump’s ‘America’; how it is shunning the world; and trying to break it in the process, about what it signifies not only for me, but for hundreds of millions of others being shut out of the burgeoning , psycho, ‘Christo’ fascist Nation it is quickly becoming (poor us! ), I then finally realized that at the end of the day, more deeply in my heart – in reality – to crudely paraphrase Clark Gable – I really just don’t give a shit.

26 Comments

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26 responses to “america

  1. gunmetal24

    I feel like religion is going to be a really big problem in the coming years on top of recession. I fear the growing rise of radical islam in my home country and a dangerous future for those not part of the cult. I pray that the young people will come to their senses and move back further in towards the middle. I would settle for conservatives over Talibans…lesser evil is the only option..mediocrity is better then danger. I see radicalism rising everywhere…even within religions I did not expect to see. Just last year, I heard of the term Christian Taliban. Even issues in the other major religions. Maybe I just wasn’t aware and social media was just revealing what was already there. We should already have settlements on the moon now, not time travelling back to the dark ages. I am definitely going to sink deeper into games, perfumes, telly, books, gardening. Anything to get a relief from the craziness out there. I am still hopeful but everyday it wanes little by little. Japan certainly sounds like a safer option right about now.

    • Anywhere could turn in this volatile atmosphere – Japan wasn’t exactly a mellow place eight decades ago – but I do feel that there is a national consensus to ‘preserve harmony’ at all costs. That can result in a certain overly placid stultification – but it’s better than constant confrontation and illiberal brutality.

      I agree about perfume and all the other retreats.

      But sometimes I have to get this shit out of my system.

      • gunmetal24

        Actually yes! I was watching the Shogun series from FX. It really unnerved me. I was confused since I wasn’t that familiar with Japanese culture, but I eventually realised I identified similar extreme patterns and thoughts between the culture back then and what I see now. The same ‘extreme version’ of blind faith, no disregard for life, martyrdom is something to be proud off. It’s a good storytelling though.

      • Still wanting to see that actually – but I wouldn’t say Japan is especially extreme in the modern age in general – unless I am not catching your drift

    • And yes – all the radicalism. Although I probably sound a bit radical in this post myself. It won’t be everybody’s cup of tea.

  2. Joan Rosasco

    Yes, it is all terrifying.

  3. jilliecat

    Agree with absolutely every word you have written. He is pure evil and I can not believe that the world has come to this. I feel ill when I see the latest disgusting, cruel and moronic thing he has said or done. To think that people admire him is beyond comprehension. And I don’t feel at all guilty when I wish him to spontaneously combust after suffering horribly from an excruciating condition; hopefully this will happen long before he tears up the Constitution and gets a third term (or pronounces himself the forever president). If only TV’s The West Wing existed in real life and Jed, CJ, Josh, Toby et al were running things.

    On a lighter note, the Japanese ambassador to the UK is such a delight – can we please keep him? Hiroshi Suzuki is a hit. He has immersed himself in our culture with humour and respect, and shows just what a good human being is. We need more like him.

    I am now going to stand under a long, hot, cleansing shower and spray myself with my favourite calming fragrance that I have mentioned before – Synthetic Jungle. Somehow that reminds me of Japan (not that I have ever been there)! Please take care of yourself, Neil.

  4. Hanamini

    Don’t abandon hope; things come and go. I’m not an optimist but none of us really know where this is going, only where it is right now, even with the signs and the resonances. Also too soon to write off an entire nation, more than half of whom may be similarly aghast, including my relatives there. But I hear you.

    • A good point – maybe this is the way this all came across – I don’t mean to tar an entire population – but there does seem to be relatively feeble resistance thus far.

      In any case, the post was more about the horror of what is happening to unjustly detained travellers and just the fact that though I enjoyed my trips there, there will very likely be no more. And I am fine with that.

      It is still sad though – because so NEEDLESS

  5. I have never wanted to visit the USA. Now I feel it is a badge of honour.
    Stay safe where you are not threatened.

  6. Robin

    I lived in Northern California when I was a kid in the early sixties. My dad, a scientist, loved the money the Americans, quite rightly, threw at scientific research and would have happily kept the family there and enjoyed a good career. We moved back to Canada, though, because the States just didn’t feel like the kind of country my folks wanted us to grow up in. Canada felt like a bit of a backwater, but nicely. Safer, calmer, less fraught. And it is, and I’m grateful to my parents for making that choice for us.

    We live close to the border and I’ve traveled up and down and across and diagonally through a lot of the US from here to Miami. I think a lot of Canadians love — loved, past tense — how familiar it all is, because we’re exposed so much to American culture, and also how different it is, how intensely American the Americans are. We really are Commonwealthers to the core, I think, fundamentally, so self-effacing and sensitive to irony. We used to joke that we’d like to join this province, British Columbia, with Washington, Oregon and Northern California to become the nation of Cascadia. We all have the same affinities, all the usual post-hippy, Summer of Love predilections. Physically, those states are stunning, and we are spoiled for beauty here, so we’re drawn to more of the same.

    But now. Not a single friend I know has any interest in traveling to the US as long as Trump is president. We’re having a federal election on the 28th, and our Liberal rep was going door to door on Wednesday and paid us a visit. He was wearing a baseball hat that read “Never the 51st,” as in the 51st state. We’ll never forget that’s what Trump said he wants Canada to be. And we’ll never forgive him. F**k him. The one good thing about all of this is that we’ve never been felt more patriotic or close as a country, proud of being Canadian, united in our hatred of that orange clown to the south.

  7. Z

    Living this nightmate in realtime, having grown up here, while waiting on my Student Visa to be approved so I can escape to Tokyo in the fall… feels like watching a very twisted hourglass. I don’t understand how these people amass power when not a single person I know across any avenue of my widely social net wants them to.

  8. Well written and well said. I would love to go to Italy once again before I am too old and ready to die, but it is doubtful I will ever travel again. However, one never knows. I was born in Baltimore City and have lived in Baltimore County for most of my adult lifetime, except for a year I had to spent in Texas long ago. Baltimore is a very quirky city and that’s what I love about it. It was recently nominated as the dirtiest city in America! You gotta love it!

    • I am from Birmingham – currently the UK’s garbage strike capital – also the filthiest !

      Strange I mentioned Baltimore and you are from there.

      You must go to Italy again. Just go rob a Baltimore bank in a perfumed balaclava

  9. BTW, bad government policy is making tourism a pain. Most Americans like visitors. I have been a foreign visitor in my life and I wish better “tides” for others. I’m unsure if people understand that this kind of chicanery makes business less smooth.

  10. It breaks my heart, as an American, but I haven’t lost hope or the will to resist. However, I can’t blame anyone for fearing to travel to the US, and if the loss of business and tourism hits some companies hard, maybe that will wake them up to oppose the madness. I feel badly for the small businesses that will suffer, and are suffering because of tariffs, but maybe it’s the wake up call some need. If you want to hear how many Americans feel and think about the current crisis, do read the Facebook posts or Substacks by Heather Cox Richardson and Robert Reich.

    • Thanks, I will – as well as devouring the New York Times every day.

      I also have some hope ( on certain days ..)

      • I had such an odd conversation with an Englishwoman the other day (I’m in London for several days). I was reading The NY Times on a park bench, and she sat down. After a few minutes, we struck up a conversation and it turned to world events. I said I didn’t like Trump, and she asked why. I didn’t want to get too deep, so I said I don’t like his policies or demeanor. When she asked for an example, I said this idea of accepting a jet from Qatar was outrageous and illegal. She really didn’t get it! Why shouldn’t he accept a gift? I exp,aimed that our Constitution directly forbids it, and she still didn’t get it. But I had just been to see the Crown Jewels and also the Cartier exhibit at the V&A, and so many of those lavish jewels were gifts to monarchs or other royals, that I thought it might be hard for people raised in a monarchy to understand that the US was meant to operate differently.

      • Well d and I were flabbergasted reading about that yesterday – and I am with you.

        What took things to UNBELIEVABLE, almost performance art levels, was when he put up a picture of himself of the Pope one week after Francis’s death. My brain still can’t take it in

      • Yes, it’s all too weird.

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