Author Archives: ginzaintherain

P O N G ………. when you really get it wrong

imageI was rootling about in a Tokyo bargain bin the other day and came across a little box of Indian perfume oils. Why not, I thought, they say they are ‘essential’ and maybe they are: I saw ‘Bali Flower’, and ‘Champaca’, and ‘Night Queen’, and couldn’t quite resist.

Prising off the lids this morning ( sealed with stoppers and a waxy covering) I discovered they were quite nice. Obviously nature based as well, which came as a surprise. Bali Flower is an unctuous plumeria, and Night Queen a rather lovely jasmine. Indian, clearly, but with an iridescent, soapy aldehydic aspect that smelled quite lovely on me ( at least when ensconced in the perfume room).

It is snowing. I envisaged a post titled ‘Jasmine on the snow’ . But as I sat on the bus on my way to the station I began to feel pangs of regret. Oh God, why have I chosen to smell like a Mumbai streetwalker on the first day of the new classes?

What was fresh; clean; almost glassy, at home is now lurid and tentacled. I smell like a large Indian lady in a pink nylon sari, smoking on a joss stick and doling out kufti.

In another context, this exact scented aura could probably smell quite nice ( a drag queen contest? a midnight orgy in Goa?), but now, in my work suit, when I was hoping to smell fresh and gentlemanly for the earnest-eyed second graders, I just smell pouffy at the seams; degenerate.

Have you yourself ever also got it horribly wrong and made a chronic lapse in scented judgement?

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THE GRAND ENTRANCE OF THE PEACOCK: : : : CREED IRIS TUBEREUSE (20I4)

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I love this.

A lush, strutting floral, Iris Tubéreuse smells not of iris powder or tuberose blooms, but of the most head-turning blue hyacinths – a fierce galbanum and violet leaf head note, fused with white lilies, tuberose, and muguet, that gives the rocket green illusion of hyacinthine fireworks  – the most brilliantly self-conscious party entrance.

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This is a scent that demands to be sprayed just prior to your arrival for the maximum impact. The upward gush of flowers – verdant, spring-like, enticing – cuts through the air like a scythe : imposing, striking, and vivid ( I have a real thing for hyacinths; the push up through the earth; that heady and entrancing smell that verges on the hypnotic).

Later, the closing stages of the perfume prove possibly less perfect, more synthetic and confused (orange blossom, vanilla, musk), in the way that hyacinth perfumes almost always do (think Tom Ford Ombre De Hyacinth and Serge Lutens Bas De Soie), but that slightly more smudged and less inspiring effect might just be on male skin.

On the right individual, though, one who loves green florals and the vivacious, florid overture; the sensation of being garlanded in fresh, living flowers and their ensuing sharp and purifiying distancing from the soiled quotidian reality of existence; Iris Tubéreuse, despite its high cost, is most definitely  worth your scrutiny.

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L’ENIGME DE L’ENCENS JAPONAIS…….SERGE NOIRE de SERGE LUTENS (2008)

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JAPANESE INCENSE SAMPLING IN TOKYO.

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Let all of me seethe: Vitriol d’Oeillet by Serge Lutens (2011)

Let all of me seethe: Vitriol d’Oeillet by Serge Lutens (2011).

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TRAGIC ANDROGYNE: EAU D’IKAR by SISLEY (2011)

TRAGIC ANDROGYNE: EAU D’IKAR by SISLEY (2011).

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THE LIMITS OF HEDONISM

 

 

 

 

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Sometimes you just can’t escape reality.

 

 

The plight of Kenji Goto has been plagueing me all week, though I naïvely thought for a while that progress was being made with ISIS in the potential hostage exchange in Jordan. I also even discussed the situation with some of the students in my classes, and asked them their viewpoints on whether there was any chance that Mr Goto might get out of his horrific predicament alive. Some, trying to keep a more optimistic way of thinking thought he might, while others said that they thought that there was no chance .

 

 

Although each time a prisoner of ISIS is beheaded live on camera I feel the same sensations of revulsion, despair and sorrow (even if I could never  watch such a video, the mere suggestion of the fate these poor people succumb to is enough to horrify you to your core), somehow with Kenji Goto the reaction to his cruel death feels much more profound. In the other cases, the victims were people I had never heard of, making their slaughter slightly more distanced. Here in Japan, though, all week in the newspapers there have been articles about his life as a journalist and humanitarian, about his family here in Tokyo, and a picture has slowly built of the kind of man he was and his bravery (and ultimately, foolishness perhaps) in going into ISIS controlled areas in the hope of rescuing Haruna Yukawa, the troubled and disturbed Japanese man who was executed first.

 

 

 

The consequence of all this media coverage has been a much deeper emotional investment in the outcome of the crisis, an almost unbearable tension and agony of uncertainty. It has been harder to resist. To push out of your mind. With words, we build a connection, and the man was becoming very real to me.

 

 

 

When a potential prisoner swap deal was mooted the other day involving the female suicide bomber in Jordan, I felt a slight lessening of the worry and thought that Goto might actually be released. It seemed that clandestine negotiations were under way between governments and intermediaries, and that he might actually get out of there alive, as people demonstrated on the streets here, and his mother and wife appeared on TV pleading for mercy (but those people, you see, have none, explicitly contravening the central tenets of their own religion); deadline times were exceeded, and the whole thing entered the realm of the slightly more bearable unknowable.

 

 

I suppose I thus decided, after a six day week of teaching, to just try and forget about it all Saturday night, just enjoy myself, as there is absolutely nothing I could do about it anyway and I am a born hedonist, dreamer, and aesthetically centred person to begin with who believes that life is to be enjoyed, rather than suffered, whenever possible. I purposefully didn’t look at the news, I didn’t want to. I couldn’t bear to. And so the night passed hilariously and vividly, we made new friends, and D and I dozily, the following morning, sauntered and meandered happily around the fleamarket (the excitement for me of those places never diminishes: the mystery of it all as you turn a corner and think you spy someone selling old, magical, unbuyable old perfume masterpieces at a fraction of the price that they would usually be sold at); to come home lazily, have baths, and make dinner, and feel that cosy Sunday feeling with someone you love (something that Kenji Goto, and the others like him, will never be able to do again); to then suddenly to have the membrane of illusion punctured

 

 

 

(by this point, when I was writing the piece below, The Lily In The Bottle, I was actively deciding not to find out what had happened, childishly clinging to my happy mood), but I hadn’t told D this – he naturally just wanted to know – and then, with a few taps on a computer keyboard, the horrifying reality of this insane world that we live in came flooding into the room.

 

 

 

 

 

Oh no.

NO.

 

 

No.

 

 

 

We just sat, stunned, eating in silence. How awful. How awful, was all we could say; terrible, awful.

 

 

 

I really thought that he might be saved. How terrible.

 

 

 

I can’t think of a recent event that has affected me this much, not even the Charlie Hebdo massacre. Probably because I am actually in Japan, have lived here for almost two decades now, and am thus tuned in to its feelings and atmospheres, and you could really tangibly feel that the public were really rooting for Kenji.

 

We are all devastated.

 

 

The cruelty of the act is something that I can’t get out of my mind. I keep imagining it and trying not to; after dinner and sitting in a daze for a while, we went upstairs and watched a Woody Allen comedy to try and find some levity, then went to bed early to forget.

 

 

 

 

*

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is now I.58 am, and I have just woken up from a horrific and upsetting nightmare, involving people in masks and machine guns, plots to blow up buildings, me trying to load a pistol to defend us, Duncan drugged in a room and me supposed to be leaving him there in some terrorist bomb plot, a real apocalyptic vision of horror that I woke up from with a headache and pounding heart, and I find I have to come downstairs and write this, lest it seem that I am some callous and uncaring individual who just goes gaily skipping into Tokyo for frivolities and perfume, takes ‘ironic’ pictures of ‘dead people’, and is oblivious to the nightmareish shit that is happening out there in the so-called ‘real world’ – all this fundamentalist, barbaric yearning to go back to some kind of medieval savagery in the name of ‘God.’

 

 

 

 

And while I don’t believe that we have a moral compunction to abandon our own lives and happinesses for bleeding hearts involvement in politics and war in distant countries, which is exactly the reason why we don’t have a TV (and I also believe that if more people did simply find something to enjoy in life, find pleasures in people and love; sensuality, nature, and beauty and just life itself, rather than brutally hacking off an innocent person’s head; plunging in the knife as the blood pours out of him like a slaughtered lamb and then literally rip off the head : HOW CAN THEY DO IT?) then the world, quite honestly, might be a far better place.

 

 

 

 

 

The dream; the instinctive desire to lose ourselves in pleasure, in art, though, has its limits.

 

 

 

 

Naturally. Obviously. All this is actually happening.

 

 

 

 

 

Kenji Goto is dead, and I feel helpless, very sad and touched with grief, even if I didn’t know him.

 

 

 

Because he was a good person who was trying to help a friend; someone who deplored violence and had devoted himself to helping children in war-ravaged places, and someone who just didn’t deserve to die such a degrading, and incomprensible, death.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mr Goto, I mourn for you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

May you rest in peace.

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LILY OF THE BOTTLE

 

 

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Just got in from a wild and fantastic weekend in Tokyo (though the cat was unimpressed that we didn’t come home last night).

 

 

Much to write about, which I will do I think tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

When you wake up in Tokyo on a Sunday morning though, obviously the first thing you have to do is hit the flea market to pick up some perfumobargains, even if it was FREEZING cold, inside and out, and I don’t know how on earth the vendors could bear to sit on their blankets in such Arctic winds.

 

 

 

 

Today was one of those plentiful days, where there was tons of vintage L’Air Du Temps and Diorissimo about for some reason, Chanel 22 and things like vintage Y soap sets and an EXQUISITE, but overpriced, Mitsouko Eau De Cologne in square bottle that I really wanted for the design of the flacon alone but couldn’t really afford to buy.

 

 

 

I left it there, beautiful and unpurchased.

 

 

 

 

The perfume above, though, I couldn’t quite resist somehow. An old lily of the valley number I can’t identify (does anybody know it?) with a very real looking muguet flower in the bottle, actually floating at the centre of the liquid (it’s probably made of silk).

 

 

 

 

This ‘suzeran’ (the Japanese word for lily-of-the-valley) doesn’t smell quite as good as it looks though,  unfortunately, and so for the time being it has been placed in Duncan’s ‘cabinet of curiosities’, where it seems to have found its natural home, there being, I think, something a bit ‘Franken-Muguet’ about it, like creatures, suspended in formaldehyde.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Incidentally, in case you were wondering about yesterday’s post, ‘Dead Taxi Driver, Tokyo’, which I realize was quite bizarre (but which I just couldn’t restrain myself from putting up on my iPhone in the heat of the moment), we were on our way to a friend’s movie premiere  – just the idea of which I found ridiculously exciting: it was a FABULOUS evening – navigating the labyrinthine streets in the heart of the city, searching for the theatre, and I passed this taxi in which the driver was profoundly asleep, looking dead. Japanese people sleep ANYWHERE and EVERYWHERE; on buses, on trains; I have even seen bus drivers asleep at the side of the road. There is no taboo about sleeping, even at people’s houses, which might come as a surprise in the ‘land of manners’. Almost as if, if you are comfortable enough to just fall asleep after dinner, it is a compliment to the coziness of the host. Construction workers, come noon, will just curl up on the pavement (literally), like cats, and snooze…

 

 

 

Seeing that we were on the way to a cultish action b-movie though, I couldn’t resist the noirish image of a ‘dead taxi driver’, somehow (the nerve-tingling tension that he would wake up as I approached the glass with my camera), although I wondered if some people might think it was an actual shot of a cadaver. I would never do such a thing, though, obviously, the irony being that it is usually me, rather than Japanese people, who alerts authorities when there is a dangerously drunk person staggering precariously on the train platform, or a person who looks dead on the street (once there was a man just fast asleep on the sidewalk but he really looked as if he were unconscious or no longer breathing, but everyone, except a very concerned me, just passed by without batting an eyelid). That is Japan, though: if it’s not my business, it’s not my business. .

 

 

 

 

No, this taxi driver was just stretched out and relaxing, ‘dead to the world’.

 

 

 

 

 

And in a city as sprawling but as safe as Tokyo, even at night he had nothing whatsoever to fear .

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DEAD TAXI DRIVER, TOKYO

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On my morning commute, a woman finds a place in the sun.

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