Mon serpent, mon cygne…………… D’HUMEUR JALOUSE by L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR (1994) + L’OMBRE DANS L’EAU by DIPTYQUE (1983) + EAU DE CAMPAGNE by SISLEY (1974)





I find myself in a green temperament;  aggressive almost, for fresh, sharp, verdant scents that match the shooting growth and push away the winter, the comforting sloth of my recent smothering orientals and let me feel like a snake shedding its skin.


And D’Humeur Jalouse is the snake: possibly the greenest scent ever made (please tell me if you know of one that is greener);:  almost painfully so at first – a serpent in the grass, the eyes of jealousy; spiked, strident tones of malicious stinging nettles and grasses, softened, only barely, with a sinuous touch of barely detectable almond milk to temper a rather curious,  olfactory sketch that is bitter, unusual, and solitary: green to the point of catharsis.







A movement from the river bank under the shades of weeping willows- a swan glides slowly by…..


Evoking a green riverside garden, the shadows of plants rippling the waters, L’Ombre Dans L’Eau (Diptyque’s most iconic perfume?) is at first intensely green  – a sharp, rush of galbanum resins entwined quite cleverly with the lush, tanging tartness of blackcurrant leaves, but from this compacted flourish there then emerges, unhurriedly, the quiet, more melancholic dignity of the Bulgarian rose: calm, romantic, yet austere,  rather supercilious and snobbish even, and thus, the main theme of L’Ombre Dans L’Eau (‘the shadow in the water’) is set.


As light fades, and the murmurs of evening approach, a soft base note of pot pourri-like rose, with the slightest hint of something like peachstone, finishes off a singular, enduring composition that breathes an air of familiar timelessness.




Eau De Campagne



The perfect green?



This classic scent from 1974 is the summer; the exhilaration of meadows; of stalks crushed underfoot, swords of sunlight infiltrating blades of grass.



Chlorophyll at dusk; ladybirds….











Filed under Basil, Blackcurrant leaf, Green, Perfume Reviews, Stinging Nettles, Tomato Leaf

13 responses to “Mon serpent, mon cygne…………… D’HUMEUR JALOUSE by L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR (1994) + L’OMBRE DANS L’EAU by DIPTYQUE (1983) + EAU DE CAMPAGNE by SISLEY (1974)

  1. Cath

    I had no idea that Eau de Campagne was a JC Ellena creation. It’s one of the only very green scents I can really appreciate.

    • ginzaintherain

      I know what you mean: easy to wear – Duncan wore it out on Sunday night and it smelled really beautiful, with just the right amount of sillage. The beginning is so original, I think, that basil and tomato leaf, but it doesn’t overdo it as it is a perfume clearly meant to be WORN.

      I adore Ellena’s First for Van Cleef and Arpels as well; such a classic. Most of his current stripped down business bores me to tears.

  2. brie

    Oh you make me want to douse myself in all three of these as I am so longing for green “to the point of catharsis”!!! And I like this idea of basil and tomato leaf as top notes!
    Had no idea that Ellena was the mastermind behind First….had me a full bottle in the early 90s and drained it dry!
    I am now hoping for some springlike weather in the near future to match this green-tastic review!

  3. It’s funny that you describe L’Ombre dans l’eau like that. Your description fits it perfectly. I always thought of it as what Père Lachaise smells like when you get to the edges of the cemetery and you are surrounded by that crazy overgrowth . . .

    • ginzaintherain

      What a glorious idea (not that I have been there, though I do love that image: last time I was in Paris it was literally only perfume for five days – I should have had a breather…)

  4. Tara

    Why am I still looking for the perfect green when Eau de Campagne is out there?

    I had forgotten all about it. Thanks for the reminder.

  5. Dearest Ginza
    Eau de Campagne? Perfection In Green.
    Ombre Dans L’Eau… changed. Too fruity now for me. Lovely memories though.
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

  6. Nocturnes

    I am beyond intrigued by tomato leaf as it is a dominant note in one of my favorite AG’s…the whimsical FolAvril (which I have been told is now discontinued) and also an obscure fragrance Pucci Sole 149 which is also discontinued but sells for over 300 USD on amazon when at one point Sephora was selling it for a fifth of the price…..Providence Perfume Company, like Aftelier, sells essential oils for those of us who dabble in perfume making….I went there initially to price the honey e.o.. but then noticed that they also sell tomato leaf…..but I am not sure I would be skilled enough to compose a bearable blend with that note…..they also have hinoki woods from Japan as an e.o. (claiming a woodsy top note…..please offer your take if you have ever sampled this e.o.) and cedrat for those who want a lemony mid note which fascinated me….God…if only I were filthy rich….I could buy every e.o to my heart’s content and blend and gift away at will!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  7. At the moment I have l’Ombre dans l’Eau soap in the bath. Your description is spot on with how my bathroom is scented whenever I use the soap. Thank heavens they seem to have not ramped too much with the soap formula.
    Question about Eau de Compagne. Does t still smell the same as it did, or has it been reorchestrated to sheer hell?

  8. As it happens my tiny vial of L’Ombre Dans L’Eau was right here beside me. I’ve poured some into my palms, which is my favorite place to wear it. I love your description.

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