Furred; reciprocated.

Dense with rich, perfumed dimensionality.

Subsumed; proffering sun-dipped, velveted flowers, spices, balsams, and a filthily indecorous lick of costus, Fille D’Eve, in vintage extract, comes as something of a shock in the usual held back politeness of Nina Ricci.



Costus, an animalic-smelling note of plant origin, is often compared to the smell of unwashed hair ( a smell I can’t endure personally but can understand the compassionate human magnetism of), but as a perfume ingredient it is a note I have loved very much when used in the warm, subliminal undertones of such sensual scents as pre-reformulation Kouros, Cabochard, Parfum D’Hermes, and Vol De Nuit.

Without this anchoring, lustful, invisible lower layer the perfumes seem to fall apart at the seams when you smell the versions that have been ‘cleaned up’: as though the ingredient, when utilized carefully, is the ingredient that is holding the scent together.




Here, in Fille d’Eve, it is used in really quite shocking amounts. An absolute overdosage from deep within the scent that just gradually creeps up on you; undercutting, taking the perfume from behind.




On application to the skin, a plethora of other perfumes arise up to me. Femme; Mitsouko, Mystere for a certain dank forestedness, even Chamade for a moment, for its classical, beating heart. We are most definitely in the realm, here of the Classical Perfume.




Fille d’Eve surpasses all of them in carnality, though. Once she blooms, and oh how she blooms, this product of ‘original sin’ – the act in her very DNA, we see that this perfume is unabashedly erotic, while somehow maintaining, just, the usual Ricci decorum. The perfumer (Richard Hy, author of such beautiful classics as Ivoire, Calandre, and Rive Gauche), ingeniously, if quite provocatively, somehow managed to combine, in his gorgeous composition, an exquisitely complex bouquet of notes that while suggestive, and seductive (to say the least), still remain dignified, mysterious, and very beautiful.









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Filed under Flowers

9 responses to “IN THE GARDEN OF ORIGINAL SIN: : FILLE d’EVE extrait by NINA RICCI (I956)

  1. So thrilled this had such a glorious effect on you. I am wearing it today also and as I have said many times, to many people, this is definitely in my top 5 fragrances ever; if not my favorite, which it just might be.
    I love how you picked up on the cistus note, so fabulously executed in this scent, which is one of my favorite ingredients in fragrances. I guess I really am a dirty girl, at least fragrance-wise these days 😉
    This scent truly does manage to be completely subversive, yet thoroughly composed and dignified at the same time. It is the fragrance equivilent of a lady who lunches, but who has a deviant side underneath all her polished WASPy ness.
    I wish this scent were more lived, yet at the same time I am so happy it is not too well known.
    Oh, almost forgot to mention how glorious the bottle is; a perfectly molded Lalique Crystal apple, with a leaf/stem for a stopper.

    • Thank god you liked this review. I got total silence from it and thought I had overdone it in some way, even though when I read it back it captured what I wanted.

      It is a stunning scent. I would love to smell it on a live woman.

      • I am very curious why no one else commented on this. I thought it was exceptionally well done and really captured the essence (pun not intended) of this amazing scent.
        All I can say about how it smells on me, seeing as I always draw out the naughty bits in a scent, is that it is truly beyond the pale of many other scents. It takes on an aura and surrounds me in this rich, floral, spicy, carnal sillage that is just breathtaking. I wonder how a Japanese woman would feel if she were to wear this? Would she find it to vulgar? Or would the floral notes be enough to make it slightly interesting?
        I do tend to wonder these things, especially with my adoration/passion towards Japan; not to mention my curiosity about it also.
        I do hope some others will pipe in with a reply or two.

  2. Autocorrect never wants me to type *loved for some reason.

  3. Damned autocorrect * too

  4. cookie queen

    Portia is sending me some of this. Excited. xxx

  5. Holly

    Sorry I missed this review, Neil. I took some time away from the internet after my parents died, which I wrote about recently in response to another more recent post of yours so enough said (until the next cathartic howl. Sorry not sorry.)
    I just want to say that I am a dedicated reader, and I am always in awe of your writing, and what you choose to illustrate it. What you achieve is transcendent and I am so grateful for what you do. You have inspired me and illuminated my life in many ways. I suspect this is the case with other readers, and perhaps like me, they are silent at times as the moment is complete. We are just basking in the glory, astonished and replete.

    • Wow. I doubt that is the case, but thank you anyway.

      I am aware that I do sometimes put these pieces up and some of them get very little response (and the whys and wherefores of how certain things get read or commented on more than others definitely intrigues me).

      This one I was pleased with, and it just passed by without notice – probably because the perfume is so obscure – but I am glad it has resurfaced this week.

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