Furred; reciprocated. Dense with rich, dimensionality.
Subsumed; proffering up sun-dipped, velveted flowers; spices, balsams, and a filthily indecorous lick of costus – Fille D’Eve, in vintage extrait, comes as something of an overtly erotic shock in the usually held back politeness of the Nina Ricci pantheon.
Costus, a rudely animal-smelling note in fact of plant origin, is often compared by perfumists to the smell of unwashed hair (a smell I can’t endure personally but can understand the compassionate human magnetism of). As a perfume ingredient, however, it is a note I have sometimes loved very much when used in the warm, subliminal undertones of such sensual scents as pre-reformulation Kouros, Cabochard, Parfum D’Hermes, and perhaps most effectively, Vol De Nuit.
Without this anchoring, lustfully invisible lower layer, the above perfumes seem to fall apart at the seams when you smell the versions that have been ‘cleaned up’: as though the ingredient, when utilized carefully, is the part of the vital fundament that is holding the scent together.
Here, in Fille d’Eve, it is used in really quite shocking amounts. An absolute overdosage from deep within the scent that just gradually creeps up on you; undercutting, taking the perfume from behind.
On application to the skin, a plethora of other perfumes immediately arise up to me. Femme; Mitsouko, Mystere for a certain dank forestedness, even Chamade for a moment, for its classical, beating heart. We are most definitely in the realm, here, of the Majestically Classical Perfume.
Fille d’Eve surpasses all of them in carnality, though. Once she blooms, and oh how she blooms, this product of ‘original sin’ – the act in her very DNA – we simultaneously realize that while this perfume is undeniably and unabashedly carnal, somehow, just, the usual Ricci decorum is maintained. The perfumer, (Richard Hy, author of such beautiful classic perfumes as Ivoire, Calandre, and Rive Gauche), ingeniously, if quite provocatively, somehow managed to deftly combine, in his gorgeous composition, an exquisitely complex bouquet and arpeggio of notes that while suggestive, and seductive (to say the very least!) still remain dignified, mysterious – and very beautiful.