In the cold it’s difficult to get away from the cliches of heat, but it can’t be helped : as the temperatures drop we are as instinctively drawn to rich, heavy fragrances as we are warm, fuzzy blankets.
Both Sandalwood Temple and Tiger By Her Side, new releases this Autumn, feel well suited to these winter criteria; thick, chewy, scents to block the draughts both literal and figural; sweet, textured ( if somewhat simplistic ) perfumes to seal out the blues.
Sandalwood Temple is all about the santal, even if it is lamentably the ‘East Indian’ variety, not the liquid, buttery rose gold that is the essence of Mysore: meaning that it is slightly flatter, less voluptuous, than the worshipped, essential variety. Still, buttressed with cedar, vetiver, and Madagascar vanilla, there is a nutty, palpable heft to this perfume that is appealing; just the right sweetness, an illusion of coconut, and a fortifying aura of calm, soul-thickening contentment.
Tiger By Her Side, ‘inspired by ancient myths of Egyptian priestesses, whose perfume adorned powers enabled them to walk with the tiger by their side, and connect to their true power, unleash their innate wildness’ is an amber patchouli rose incense theoretically, but in practice a sweet, spicy gourmand not unlike Hermessence Ambre Narguile: undaunted, glistening streaks of cinnamon in amber: oily, potent and playfully strengthening. While not quite a tiger ( more a puffed up pussycat, really ), I would still recommend this one as an early winter booster and furred, stretched out playscent.
These sound cozy. And I love the art you chose. I looked up Sana Jardin and saw that they are involved in The Beyond Sustainability Movement toward the economic empowerment of women involved in the making of their products. Sounds very laudable. Neil, would you say that these fragrances are worth the £180 they charge for 100mls?
I think some of my favourite compositions are of the rich, heavy, thick, chewy wintertime variety. Here on the southern coast of BC, while it’s not nearly as cold as the rest of Canada, it is DAMN damp, and we need all the coziness we can get.
As you will probably remember, the ultra fresh neroli Berber Blonde was a life saver for me during the hospital horror, and I really liked Savage Jasmine as well.
These are strong, and thus probably worth the cash, but I do think there are our dreaded sandalwood synthetics supporting the East Indian which pretty much writes it off for us ( but which smells very du jour and fashionable; I think I would enjoy it on someone sitting next to me ).
The tiger is quite good but again a tad basic: for fluffy cannelle I would choose Ambre Narguile over it although Tiger is less sugared, more dense.
I do remember the saving graces of Berber Blonde during your internment. I do hope that you and your new knees are continuing to recover.
Very serviceable answer, thanks, N.! They’re not easy to get here, if not impossible, so I won’t fret too much if I can’t make them mine. Just as well. I have enough bottles to last me until I’m Doris Day’s age at least.
And what are your winter favourites?
I’d love to know.
Top ten please!
Hmmm. Just off the top of me ‘ead, in no particular order, subject to change; the things that make me feel especially warm and comforted:
Donna Karan Black Cashmere
Gianni Versace (vintage, the original)
Amouage Memoir Woman, Interlude Woman
Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan
Parfum d’Empire Wazumba
Vintage Shalimar
Vintage Jean Patou Normandie
Vintage Caron Tabac Blonde, Nuit de Noël
Vintage Cuir de Russie, Coco, Bois des Iles
Vintage Lancôme Magie Noire
I might have others I like as much or more for coziness but there’s a start.
And you, dear N.?
Let me think.
Love this glinting cornucopia of richesse though!
I think so many of them are altogether predictable, though. I should have tried harder to be more interesting! Oh, damn, that’s Wazamba, too, misspelt. I’m not a huge, huge amber fan, I have to say, so there are probably lots of great ones that I’m missing just because of my leanings towards woods and spices. The original Dior Ambre Nuit was nice, though . . . I’m remembering Nasomatto Pardon, now, PG Aomassai . . . Oh, of course, vintage Gucci pour Homme, which always reminds me of smouldering late autumn leaves . . . All sorts of incenses (Norma Kamali being the fiercest) . . . It’s a great category, isn’t it, “warm” fragrances?
I DESPISED Aomassi! That cacao horror made me heave.
Maybe displacing one of the above: Balsamo della Mecca. Might be the warmest of all.
Don’t know if you’ve tried the newer Habanita edp, Neil, but it’s quite remarkably good. Loosely based on the original, but in its own right a dark, interesting, mastic-laden source of warmth. Okay, I’m going to bed now! Or soon . . .
I WANT Habanita and have wanted it for a while. I love it
Seconded re the new Habanita edp, it is very good. I just got some vintage Bal a Versailles EDT and there was a bit of kinship.
I love leather scents in autumn and winter; Cuir d’Ange, Cuir de Lancome, Cuir Pleine Fleur, Cuir X. And Anima Dulcis and Ambre Narguilé. Though I also wore large amounts of vintage Cristalle EDT and Y the other week and they were a counter-magic to the cold grey.
As I am wearing Elizabeth Taylor Gardenia!
I like Anima Dulcis actually and wouldn’t mind a bottle.
Yes to all of the above!
They sound lovely. I’m not familiar with Sana Jardin, Paris.
A nice range of scents actually
A sandalwood perfume you actually enjoy? These both sound lovely. Did you ever finish that sandalwood hand cream I sent you several years ago?
I am currently enjoying Tauer’s L’Air d’un Desert Marocan…shockingly, given it has cumin in it…a good friend gifted me a mini bottle…and it wears rather sweet (versus the dry that everyone else talks about) on my skin. Also, Pacifica’s Mexican Cocoa which has added notes of spice and almonds (sadly discontinued) is getting some wearings. And Dame Perfumery Black Flower Mexican Vanilla which is my all time favorite vanilla…have you tried it?
No but I like the sound of it.
And that hand cream is wonderful