I hadn’t even heard anything about these new Chanel colognes, but suddenly there they were : posters plastered everywhere in Harajuku down to the flagship Chanel store on the Omotesando.
This was was one of those very rare occasions these days where you go yup, yup, yup – on first impressions all of those are really nice: working on all levels- good job Mr Polge ..well-made, of classical inspiration but also contemporary; balanced, high quality, and most of all, zinging and exceedingly pleasant.
made me reel : wow, it’s like vintage Diorella! I said immediately out loud: a citric herb salad patchouli, chic and convincing, that strikes me as quite bold in the current climate- a perfumer sure of the courage of his convictions. Like Eau de Rochas, it is one of those slightly ‘depressed citruses’ with a moody underkick that contrasts with the brisk lemon and lime of the top notes, but this shady, androgynous aspect is quite sexy ( all of these perfumes are officially ungendered ) and Deauville has potential cult hit summer perfume written all over it.
is a safer bet, a fresh vanillic floral with a baby powder like vibe that would be lovely as a post shower summer-nap scent: easy, soothing and unthreatening, potentially on the right skin quite evening -shawl- al- fresco- dining-white-wine post-engagement romantic, while
is the obvious winner in terms of mass appeal: an airy, fresh cotton base note, cleverly loveable, with a to-die-for crisp, citrus people opening that almost made me run straight to the ATM. It’s probably good that I didn’t ( in its laundry clean later stages this scent feels almost like a Chanel take on a youth hit like CK One), but I would still definitely wear it, to school for example, where I can imagine that it would work with clean laundered clothes quite exquisitely.
All three of these fragrances were ostensibly based on stories and places in Coco Chanel’s lifetime. I don’t have time or the energy to give my own take on all that ( if you ask me, these links are pretty tenuous, except Paris-Deauville, which does smell undoubtedly French and reminiscent of another era). For me it is enough just to know, after a recent slough of dull releases by Chanel, that the house can still create and release breezy, uncomplicated, but sense-tingling summer perfumes that make you smile and take notice again.
The Black Narcissus 
Coincidently I tested these today too. Venise is my favourite but longevity is so poor. For all three as a matter of fact. These are really nice colognes to splash/spray on lavishly after a shower but personally I like my scents to last a little longer. Also because I don’t want to carry a big bottle with me and these require reapplying. If I were gifted a bottle I’d happily use it though, no doubt about that 🙂
My feelings too. But at least they feel like solid perfumes, if you know what I mean. Actually nice.
Oohh – I’ve been reading about Paris-Deauville and quite fancying trying it, but now you’ve given me a serious lemming. I love vintage Diorella (though perhaps I should just stalk more of that on ebay?)
I mean I was just reacting quickly and don’t have time at the moment for proper long Narcissus pieces. On the card today, the dry down was nice, but almost reminiscent of Gucci Rush in that patchouli kind of way, but I did feel that as a summer cologne with an intensely Diorella-ish feel this quite nice. Definitely worth trying!
Venise and Biarritz sound especially appealing, but I’m not a cologne person. I need lots of projection and longevity with my dry skin. It would be fun to have a 15ml each coffret to take on holiday though. 🙂
REALLY nice as holiday perfumes I reckon. These days the world seems to be turning to hell; sometimes just a nice, pleasant, mind-numbing (in a good way) spritz is just what the doctor ordered!
You are right about that! However, I have not tried any of these as they are not available in any store close to where I live. Venise and Biarrity are the one I would love to try. I have several of the Exclusif EDT’s and most of them are not long-lasting but pleasant and office friendly.
Exactly. These are equally untaxing but also less uppity than the Exclusifs. I think Olivier Polge is the better perfumer – looser and more pleasure seeking.
I tried these on cards a little over a week ago and just enjoyed the scents so much. I don’t think I would invest in any though, there is a bit of overlap with what I already posses.
I do have to say though, if I had to choose one, it would be the Paris-Venise. I just loved that powdery cool feel to it, but it does share much DNA with many other scents I own, I think so at least.
I think I am just too smitten with the Dior Collection Privée scents lately and am excitedly waiting for the newest releases to hit the local boutique, if they do.
These are stellar releases in the Chanel lineup and I am sure they will sell exceptionally well. Now if only they still had Misia in an edt instead of the overbearing edp it morphed into, then I would really be excited.
We think alike! I would love a bottle of Misia as well. Somehow though I have never gravitated towards the Diors. Maybe I should go back and smell them again. Which ones do you recommend the most?
Well my two favorites are Mitzah, which I think is only available in Paris and Cuir Cannage. Others I have are Patchouli Impériale, Oud Ispahan, Feve Deliciouse (which is quite sweet) Ambre Nuit (meh) and Bois d’argent (just ok). I want some of the florals, such as; Granville, Gris Montaigne (lovely iris), Colle Noire (a charming floral). They have just released a whole new group, of which I am dying to try the Sakura. So if you are in the boutique and they have the Sakura, please try it for me and share details.
I will !
I haven’t tried these yet. After reading your review, I am very keen to do so.
I may have talked them up too much. On third thoughts they strike me as ‘merely’ enjoyable and pleasant, nothing mind-bending or anything like that (although my mind WAS bent by the lime-peel freshness of the top notes of Biarritz, in truth). I think I was just astonished that they weren’t boring and uninspiring, like a large majority of perfumes seem to be be these days (said the jaded old man).
Know what you mean.
Popped into Selfridges today but they won’t be in the UK till September.
Wow – must have been a Japan exclusive! I was in the right place at the right time, obviously. They make up for the lacklustre flop that was Gabrielle a bit.
No, they‘ve been on the shelves in Germany for a bit now.
To your extreme ennui!
😀 nein, nein! I rather liked the Deauville, even managed to get a tester with some shower gel, the EdC and some other little something!
Not as SAMPLES ?!!
Yup: a sample EdC and two saches – body cream and shower lotion, all in a very chic ivory coloured thingy. Also, to rub it in, the salespersons seemed very relaxed about giving them away …
Schadenfreude aside, at the end of the day, I prefer La Pausa. Abysmal longevity but so very, very beautiful. But if a bottle of the new colognes fell into my lap: no sweat.
I bought a bottle of Diptyque yesterday and the assistant constipated out ONE sample (specified: we can only give you one, and that was only with a purchase….)
things are VERY different here
I am so excited about trying these! They haven’t come out yet in Montreal. Thanks so much for the vivid review that brought them to life in my imagination! They sound like they smell just the way that I have been hoping that they will smell 🙂 Have you had a chance to sniff Chanel’s Fresh Body Cream? I’m curious if Les Eaux will layer well with the cream. My warm dry skin eats perfume even at EDP concentration so I cannot imagine how these EDT (that sound very much like refreshing Eau de Colognes) will be able to last… But perhaps such is the ephemeral beauty of life!
Hi.
They struck me as glorious in their top notes with fairly persistent, but less amazing base accords that nevertheless do smell rather nice. I haven’t tried the cream but it does sound like a good idea.
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