I hadn’t even heard anything about these new Chanel colognes, but suddenly there they were : posters plastered everywhere in Harajuku down to the flagship Chanel store on the Omotesando.
This was was one of those very rare occasions these days where you go yup, yup, yup – on first impressions all of those are really nice: working on all levels- good job Mr Polge ..well-made, of classical inspiration but also contemporary; balanced, high quality, and most of all, zinging and exceedingly pleasant.
made me reel : wow, it’s like vintage Diorella! I said immediately out loud: a citric herb salad patchouli, chic and convincing, that strikes me as quite bold in the current climate- a perfumer sure of the courage of his convictions. Like Eau de Rochas, it is one of those slightly ‘depressed citruses’ with a moody underkick that contrasts with the brisk lemon and lime of the top notes, but this shady, androgynous aspect is quite sexy ( all of these perfumes are officially ungendered ) and Deauville has potential cult hit summer perfume written all over it.
is a safer bet, a fresh vanillic floral with a baby powder like vibe that would be lovely as a post shower summer-nap scent: easy, soothing and unthreatening, potentially on the right skin quite evening -shawl- al- fresco- dining-white-wine post-engagement romantic, while
is the obvious winner in terms of mass appeal: an airy, fresh cotton base note, cleverly loveable, with a to-die-for crisp, citrus people opening that almost made me run straight to the ATM. It’s probably good that I didn’t ( in its laundry clean later stages this scent feels almost like a Chanel take on a youth hit like CK One), but I would still definitely wear it, to school for example, where I can imagine that it would work with clean laundered clothes quite exquisitely.
All three of these fragrances were ostensibly based on stories and places in Coco Chanel’s lifetime. I don’t have time or the energy to give my own take on all that ( if you ask me, these links are pretty tenuous, except Paris-Deauville, which does smell undoubtedly French and reminiscent of another era). For me it is enough just to know, after a recent slough of dull releases by Chanel, that the house can still create and release breezy, uncomplicated, but sense-tingling summer perfumes that make you smile and take notice again.