THE FORBIDDEN : OSAKA AT NIGHT; ‘MARTIN’ BY SOFT CELL (1983), + L’INTERDIT by GIVENCHY (2019)

CD35C17D-E8FF-4E3B-8E9F-6BDBC0AF395F

969664E2-76D5-484A-8EB4-02F8575531A6

DC03A390-B69C-4C01-BF67-9F3BC5C49A63

975DA888-3571-4980-85CA-C76834BF3EBBDF1482BD-0E64-4C85-9515-D9B2539C3EFB

 

 

 

 

 

It was third time lucky with Osaka. The first time we were there was in refuge: shell shocked after the earthquake, cold, dazed and confused, and neither of us can remember a great deal about it. The second, I was not well still, post-operation, and we kept fighting.

 

 

 

Neither of these times had really let us have a true glimpse of what makes this fierce, vast, throbbing hub of neon and energy thrive and tick – its deservedly famous food ( people live to eat here, and we had some truly delicious Japanese dishes that satisfied at a deep level ); the catacombs and highrises of thousands and thousands upon mile upon mile of bars, restaurants, theatres, cabarets, sex joints, boxing gyms, old wooden houses, teeming department stores,  apartment blocks, street markets, cafes, crowds of animated people, Asian tourists – milling along on the streets…. there was an ease, and a flow to the place that makes you understand the Osakans’occasional resistance to the more removed, aloof Tokyo lording grandly over the country in the north.

 

 

 

 

 

4BEAE206-6283-4EC1-8AF2-77537D57C929

4989B791-2FC7-47BF-B0D8-7742586166C69982BC15-6713-46DC-B69A-ACC5AA9C4562D78C82E6-EF0F-4900-B724-06FB735E0198E9E9A15D-DD84-44EB-8248-B58F493B0B1BEE0C5F3D-39A4-471F-8092-5B3C5FF48FE11FC6F9EA-0086-4AEE-9793-CAAD712C7A21

 

 

 

 

 

 

This time we had taken the shinkansen down to Osaka for a curious reason : I had decided that I wanted to make a pop video for my birthday. Not something I had ever considered doing before, but since having found an original vinyl copy of The Art Of Falling Apart by Soft Cell at a shop in Yokohama, with its limited edition secret ‘Martin’ 12” single concealed in the sleeve, this had brought memories flooding back from my obsessive teenage years and I wanted to consecrate them : that dark time when this terrifying, ten and half minute demon disco masterpiece of goth horror schlock about a psychologically disturbed suburban teenage vampire – both melodramatically comical, and yet in its relentlessness and sheer levels of histrionically ramped up paranoia and hysteria, exhilarating, and disturbing  (to a twelve year old boy locked in his own world of clandestine terrors, taping it on the late night radio after the regular Top 40 chart show on a Sunday, it offered both a glimpse into a world I was terrified I might be part of, yet also a chance of release, escape : a friend of mine in fact told me the other day told me that this was the song that ‘saved his soul’) – invading my willfully impressionable psyche with its power.

 

 

 

This is the dichotomy with Soft Cell :the operatics, the seediness, but also the very original, melodic refrains that led to their undeniable mass appeal – both mainstream and yet so underground and art school at the same time:::  the genius synth pop electro duo of David Ball and the torridly frenetic torch singer Marc Almond, who scored a gargantuan international hit in 1981 with Tainted Love but were simultaneously like dark saviours to outsiders and freaks, young gay kids –  anyone oppressed by the crushing boredom of conformity : a chink of light in the draylon sofa darkness,: yet were also embraced by the mainstream pop culture, scoring five top 5 singles in the UK. Say Hello, Wave Goodbye, one of their most seminal singles is a tawdry (“ Standing at the doors of the Pink Flamingo crying in the rain “) yet impossibly moving song with a chorus that makes me cry ( and my father too : strangely ;this March, when was in England, I took a picture of him watching the video on YouTube – it is one of his all time favourite songs….)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

B6310818-0F45-449E-9562-6CBC6B55638C

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not having planned what exactly what we were going to do at the studio our photographer and filmmaker friend Michael had booked for us, we simply stuffed various (some) bizarre items from around our house and took two big suitcases with us down to the fascinating Namba area of Osaka that we were staying in ( D had somehow also picked up, and was wearing, a perfume called Improv – a precise blend of Calvin Klein’s two classics for men, Eternity and Obsession

 

 

 

 

 

 

00CD89C6-398F-4A37-B70C-5DF6D55C7102

 

 

 

(gratuitous picture of our cat with Soft Cell records )

 

 

 

A6E3DAF8-9BC7-49ED-BA32-387DFB0E8B17

 

 

 

 

–   which smelled amazing, and formed the weekend’s olfactory soundtrack ( recently I myself have just been wearing pure vetiver essential oil).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A3F5376A-5EC6-42DF-AF31-84C962E9537B

 

 

 

Martin, naturally played by me in the video, is plagued by voices, visions, hallucinations; and we acted out this paralyzing fear with a series of monsters and gargoyles played by Duncan – as the blond – and other friends who joined us in Osaka : Michael will juxtapose them and multilayer them with other images later to create a chaotic mayhem of German expressionist monochrome fear

 

 

 

 

0C7A75E8-D423-4237-91B1-F9F0F6737A38

D748A09B-772F-4CEA-B080-95DE1202BD40

 

 

 

 

 

For me, as well as just being a creatively hilarious way to spend a birthday it is also a real exorcising of ghosts : despite the delight I often felt as a child, those times, in my heart, were not easy, and my pop records were my salvation : this track is a visceral explosion of everything at once – and I want our presentation of it to be beautiful, but also unhinge.

 

 

 

 

13B0068A-06C1-4383-9B56-A7A41D36F28A

2F1586B6-F429-446E-A40A-4E6982F75D2E

 

EE10AE0B-4B97-46C9-BA5A-2C2408DC8C425E614BF0-A465-47A8-8611-455D59BB8E1E

 

 

 

 

 

While the first part of the film will be in black and white, suddenly half way through we will plunge into colour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2F0F2008-8C48-4F62-8234-F34ABA51CB87

 

26F92157-430D-40BE-8B3F-7DA3F137049805D0CBAE-54A0-4230-976B-D72249187A51

 

 

 

 

 

Transformed into Burning Bush, the ramifications of which I don’t quite understand fully but wanted as a complete switch – a parallel world – Michael followed this serene night creature through the streets, down alleyways, over bridges, filmed in front of the glittering city at the top of tall buildings.

 

 

 

 

 

48373206-FF0E-48B9-9803-3E9EEA2ABE14E363DE0B-31A5-41BE-9D59-84796B2F9DA2

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was wearing – no was DRENCHED in – the 2019 version of L’Interdit ( ‘The Forbidden’), a brand new iteration of a Givenchy Classic ( which I never liked ) that bears no resemblance to its soft woody powdered predecessor. No, this smells like grape bubblegum : tuberose, jasmine sambac, a fruit Poison that while vapid, in profusion emanated a cloud of blase laissez faire that suited the contrast between our nocturnal wanderings, noxious, yet tempting :::seizing the eyes and the noses of passers by ( Chinese children : staring ) as I glided through the streets like a bloodsucking, nonchalant marquis….

 

 

 

 

1CE3C73B-039F-4D11-BFCF-60050D0555D1

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next day, the Monday, was my actual birthday, and we returned to normality and the land of the living.

 

 

 

 

 

Lunch at a wonderful old place just next to our hotel

 

 

 

E7FF63C3-C4EA-4296-816B-0A5C0CFC8EFE

 

 

 

 

and a fantastic afternoon of trawling around record shops.

 

 

 

5AAA4967-2BA7-4A82-8021-8E382DD7C0F1.jpeg81D54227-B517-490D-B301-85F1E06EE1D8.jpeg

 

98C7C5C0-B5B1-4221-9F43-8421EF72710F

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The following day was then back to work – shorn and delivered, in the classroom, compressed ::: the song still raging, and echoing, through my head ….

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DAC7F993-39B6-45C9-BEDB-0BE441BB982AD2A12FED-E558-4929-B059-2852A00B2C43.jpeg

20 Comments

Filed under Flowers

when an old friend presents Frederic Malle with your book

715E0238-E8D9-480B-9F35-3325A548328A

 

– and he doesn’t leave it there, uninterested on the table, but takes it with him; slipped in his briefcase.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

24 Comments

Filed under Flowers

EIDERANTLER by JANUARY SCENT PROJECT (2017)

 

 

RetroAd.png

 

 

 

SamplesFull2019+copy.jpg

 

 

 

EiderantlerPerfumeBottle4.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello again, and welcome to Winter.

 

 

 

 

Apologies for the absence: I have been up to all kinds of things, both good and bad, but can’t write about them right now for various reasons (this unforthcomingness is not in my nature but has been thrust upon me).

 

 

 

 

 

I have succumbed to my natural biorhythms. Every year, I go in familiar waves, and now the student evaluations are over – them rating us, not the other way round, I can lay my performing monkey aside and drift back into reveries of Christmas and New Year. It has been a good term, actually, but although my colleagues will be gearing up heavily for the final push before exams, I will be hiding away in Kamakura, nesting and writing, and finally having a breather after what has easily been the most eventful and memorable year of my life.

 

 

 

 

 

Anyway. To Perfume. I have backlog of scent I would like to write about, and will take my time with them. But today is a lovely crisp, sunny day after what feels like weeks of cold damp relentless rain ( I hate, hate rain unless it comes at precisely the right moment) and a green, forested perfume seems like a good way to inch my way back into Narcissus conscious again.

 

 

 

 

I recently received a sample set of perfumes by January Scent Project, an East Coast independent perfumery outfit by artist John Biebel, who creates the perfumes and designs the artwork (I really love the presentation of this brand) for a set of fragrances that are unusual, at times even freakish, but which have a certain plaintive, medicinal man-o’-the-woods sanctity running through their veins : you can feel that nature and space are very important for this person; alongside a certain goth sensitivity, heartfulness, and rebellious originality.

 

 

 

 

Eiderantler, which sounds rather like a Cocteau Twins b-side, is curiously described as an ‘ivy fougere’. It has not an ounce of sweetness, at least not initially, but has a frank delicacy to it of woodland branches and fresh air : green leaves, ivy, moss and balsam fir wreathing through  an oak, lavender and fine hayed vetiver scent that creates a discreet aura of stepping through undergrowth and inhaling cold, clean air. It would be too ‘deliberate’ and self-serious for me, perhaps, but it was the perfect match for our friend Skyler who stayed the other night with their partner: androgyny was a requisite in the perfumes I chose for them and this one rung all the bells : for the fact that it was ‘bold yet quiet’, and seemed to have ‘revelations waiting to happen’. Living in Hawaii (the sound of which, all those tropical flowers on the air, makes me really want to go to Honolulu – if I can only put up with the music, which I think would drive me bananas), they were shivering in the cold of Japan on Wednesday morning as we tried to heat up the place with kerosene, but determined to go hiking nevertheless; stopping off at temples, whose solemness and ancient gravity is only augmented by cold raindrops on tall trees;  unnerving, at the marrow level, in its judgmental austerity ; the dark-leaved ivy of the Eiderantler – on the skin – a numinous allegory.

 

 

 

 

 

 

21 Comments

Filed under Fougère, Green

directors and crew laugh at my ‘star turn’ in Spoiled Identity

 

31F68C5C-EE96-46E3-8B31-F7F19274477A.jpeg

9 Comments

Filed under Flowers

CHANEL NO 5

8952F6AC-30D8-4A4D-AF7E-27305D200E75
1A2CD53C-17CE-4AE5-9BD3-A3864DDC4781.jpeg

 

 

 

After gleefully combing the plush kitsch bric a brac emporia at the Silk Center and an exhibition on Saudi women’s headdresses at the Yokohama EurAsian Art Museum on Saturday, we went for a slow and relaxing dinner at the Cafe de la Paix for beef stew comfort food, red wine, and a view of the yellowing ginkgo and zelkova trees outside – as autumn, though still warm here, alights its inexorable touch of melancholy in the air, and lends the perfect November backdrop to the grander, more atmospheric side of Yokohama, the area near Osambashi Pier, Marine Tower and Yamashita Park.

 

 

 

It is sometimes quite nice to just linger in one or two blocks of a city, in detail, taking your time ( we marvelled at the richness; just how many intriguing places there are packed into one dense area – I imagine that this is what New York must be like in the fall, a city I should already have been to..) : I love boulevards, apartments, misted windows; unknown happenings hidden in stone buildings ………after a while we had made our way to yet another  place down a side street down another side street ( the fact you will never discover all the bees in the honeycomb; the dive bars, the cheap eateries; a boxing gym, old wooden houses.. it is this that I love about cities; the evolving labyrinth you can never a hundred percent know).

 

 

 

 

45F53E05-5044-46CC-8D08-F7C67382FDF7.jpeg

 

86BF4AE6-F4C4-4963-9429-6B9217958CBD

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stormy Monday – rather than Gloomy Sunday – was a neon lit, tucked-away live house we eventually found with GPS; instruments ready for a rock set.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Star of the show  – and this woman really is quite something – was Emi Leonora, a legendary punk jazz prog rock chanteuse and brilliant pianist, who mainly improvised her songs, beginning with a guttural, but melodic pitch perfect howl, and with jazz and classical pianistics, joined gradually by her tight-as-fuck band on guitar, drums and bass, rising and apotheosising up into Zeppelinesque/King Crimsonesque rock funk mesmers that had us in thrall and writhing on our banquettes as she glissandoed and arpeggioed up and down the piano like the instrumental break in David Bowie’s Aladdin Sane. Again and again like a thunderstorm in your heart. 

 

 

 

 

The singer was wearing Chanel No 5. Greeting her when we came in ( D has miraculously already shot her in his film, somehow collecting a whole fistful of strong Tokyo divas in his recent years of flitting about different scenes and theatres and venues) in pivotal scenes of madness;she gave off powdered musk emanations of carnality I recognised – so womanly, fleshy, disturbing in the lower notes but damn sexy; but couldn’t quite place until I saw the bottle next to her things on our table 

 

 

 

 

 

 

521B49B4-150D-4D6D-9BCE-2FBC7D1374FA.jpeg

CC826F88-32F9-442F-AC23-75F059046F61.jpeg

 

 

 

 

Great to smell this aldehydic classic in a new context. Of fierce aesthetic and mind, Emi has been a fixture of the Tokyo demimonde for three decades in various guises but is still constantly trying out new things ( this was only the second time the band had performed together apparently, which was miraculous. They were a pulsating organism ). I felt she was fully alive, agitating the moment and reacting to it in the moment; yet the perfume felt, and smelled, like a nod, despite the rebellious middle finger of the music –  to classical taste – she is a lady underneath. There was also a happy birthday – the bassist had just turned sixty, followed by a raucous song with cake and candles in celebration of that; and then another announcement, to the absolute delight of the audience, that they had just got married. Inspiring.

20 Comments

Filed under Flowers

“venus”

20 Comments

November 2, 2019 · 6:51 pm

clown collection

09082715-AA41-4C19-B7B9-0B7282101976.jpeg

15538007-C022-4041-B73D-2A7AA45781EE

200A15D2-B028-440E-A2BC-50CC5DC56119.jpeg

CF517EB5-6CCB-4810-AA02-ECBA063AFF2F.jpeg5084339E-D235-4ED2-857F-D32C562B82B0.jpeg

5 Comments

Filed under Flowers

LIQUID ILLUSION by JULIETTE HAS A GUN (2018) + GOLD LEAF by DSH PERFUMES (2019)

 

 

32F91858-57A6-4692-A95A-BFE72B9D7088.png

 

 

 

I am increasingly questioning my subjective perceptions when it comes to perfume, realizing more and more that scent truly does smell quite different on different people and that when testing out new fragrances I need a model.

 

 

 

It is also always fun to give perfume to people as presents, so I took some samples along with me to the film shoot on Saturday, an absolute riot of a day that ended with a mayhem in a bar scene in Fujisawa via a quite outrageous one filmed in the woods somewhere outside Totsuka, but began with a serene and exquisite scene at a tea house in Kamakura ( pictured ), titled The Way Of Tears, a lesson in which the abducted students at the Academy are taught the correct way to cry – with homework – as part of their ‘sensitivity training’.

 

 

 

 

Michael, pictured left, has what I call a really good ‘canvas’: his skin brings out perfumes in a very clean and huggable way; we had a flea market sale a few months ago to raise money for Spoiled Identity, featuring clothes and bric a brac and a slew of perfumes I didn’t need anymore, and he decided to pick up some vintage Chanel Egoiste (1990), a sweet cinnamon spiced sandalwood that always smelled vile, even nauseating, on me but which on him was stunning : an entirely different skin interpretation with a warm, gentle aura I would never have recognized as being the same perfume.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A01DB5C8-0D3E-4859-BB0B-4C3ABDC127B9.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Liquid Illusion is a another sweet perfume I somehow thought he would be able to pull off. Although I briefly considered keeping the small bottle for myself ( with almondy heliotrope over a dry, rooty iris note, what could possibly go wrong?), but there is something about the insistence of the dry amber, irone, iracine and obstinate tonka bean in the base note that I knew would just gradually grate on me : he loved it unhesitatingly straight away, though – a perfume you would  ‘inhale greedily in an elevator’.

 

 

 

 

 

Rumi, the kimono clad sensei in the centre of the shot, whose tears flowed almost too freely for the scene (I think she is actually something of a grande actrice but just hasn’t realized that about herself yet), had not eaten breakfast that morning, neither before nor after going to the specialist shop to have her dress fitting in Kamakura, in order to be able to carry off the strictures of her many layered kimono and feel right for the part. She felt faint ( and looked very pale ) when we all met at Kamakura station, just managing a small energy drink through a straw, and emitting a faint scent of incense powder that was beguiling and befitting her generally mysterious atmosphere. A perfume lover, embroidery teacher and couture maker, she told me that recently, rather than her usual French classics – she loves Ricci Farouche in particular – she has taken to wearing traditional Japanese incense in special powdered forms, as skin scent; and invited me to come round one day this month or the next to sample them myself – an invitation I am definitely going to take her up on. It sounds like the way to also perfume myself, come my month-long planned hibernation this December.

 

 

 

 

 

I proffered Gold Leaf to her, a new, very gilded, rich, mellow fruit of an autumnal ambered chypre to her that is beautifully blended, enigmatic and sure to be very popular addition to the Dawn Spencer Hurwitz  line of perfumes that covers the full spectrum of the fragranced alphabet; although I personally don’t enjoy East Indian or Australian sandalwood notes on my own skin, so would not be able to pull this one off myself,  I agree fully with Tora who sent me the sample that this perfume somehow takes her to the edges of a memory she can’t quite place; locating you in a ‘nostalgia of the present’.

 

 

 

 

 

The teashop, down a side street in Kamakura with a traditional room at the back, was a tranquil little place, selling glassware, wooden furniture, and all kinds of tea related paraphernalia; there were even gold-leaf covered chocolate ganaches placed on ceramic trays in the entrance which I thought was an odd coincidence. Rumi had found Gold Leaf a tad too sweet given her current more austere predilections, but after we had finished the scene – which, despite the dark sardonic comedy of D’s script – with the students learning various techniques of crying, from the one single tear rolling down the cheek of each attendee, to full wailing, but which despite the hilarity of those filming and watching left all the actors looking curiously, genuinely desolate by the end, I offered the sample of Gold Leaf instead to Michael. On him it smelled very complex, burnished, a little too ‘mature’, perhaps, I thought at first, but he was immediately intrigued by its obvious elegance, and the concept that perfumes really do differ tremendously depending on the individual ( an idea that he said he had never really  considered before). As the day of filming continued in different locations, the scent began to feel more at home on him, perhaps more pleasing, ultimately,  than the less emotional Liquid Illusion, whose name I hadn’t initially realized the complete aptness of until immersed, Saturday morning, in D’s strange, captivating, and poetic, vale of tears.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

C7820AA4-48C0-4E49-8653-1B7CEF417AD8

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6374B5E3-769A-4491-8D27-5E9556F45FEA

 

 

12 Comments

Filed under Flowers, PERFUME AND PERFORMANCE, Psychodrama, Voyeur

saturday night in the taxi …….

793977A5-0AAD-4B16-90E9-D9BC265CF314.jpeg

 

….. what perfume ?

 

20 Comments

Filed under Flowers

KILLER FLORAL : : : : FLOS MORTIS by ROGUE PERFUMERY (2019)

 

Unknown-1.jpeg

 

 

 

 

529427.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is the first perfume I have smelled by Rogue Perfumery and I need to know more. I am in love. Described by the company as an ‘indolic dirge’, Flos Mortis, or Flower Of Death, is a tuberose and jasmine tincture of potent florals over leather, osmanthus and redcurrant that, despite the thematics of decay and floral decadence, is in truth more like a fresh and scintillating Lazarus  (‘wow, that is so vivid‘ said Duncan when he smelled Flos Mortis last night).

 

 

 

 

 

This is a perfume that truly leaps from the bottle : alive, with an onslaught of pungent, but pure, wintergreen notes that make Tubereuse Criminelle seem like a cowering ninny in comparison. The clean, accompanying  jasmine absolute that tangos with the tuberose puts one in mind, at certain moments, of Sarrasins, as well as Lust by Gorilla Perfumes (which is fascinating and ravishing on some people, but just too indolic for me, like suffocating on mothballs), while the beautiful, natural tuberose absolute at the centre of the perfume  – green, creamy, pink – blowing concurrently hot and cold – does at times, as you might expect with a high percentage of natural tuberose oils, also remind you, albeit briefly, of the seminal Carnal Flower by Frederic Malle, which is greener, transparent, more ‘scientific’.

 

 

 

Despite these tuberose and jasmine remembrances, Flos Mortis works entirely in its own right,  with a discrete identity fully intact, and on my skin, rather than the faecally sour indoles you might expect from the perfume house’s descriptions (its “sweet, deathly opening“, its “dark-minded Victorian themes”), the central locus of the perfume is more comparable to vintage Poison: rich, a bit dangerous ; warm; glowing; gorgeous.

 

 

 

 

 

375x500.56247.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

15 Comments

Filed under Antidotes to the banality of modern times, Flowers, Jasmine, Tuberose